FAQ: How can I hook a microscope objective to my camera?

[Craig Gerard]

How crucial is it to have exactly 150 mm ?

A distance of 146.5mm does not present a problem of relevant concern.

The designated tube length distance of 150mm from sensor to objective shoulder will provide 10X magnification on sensor when using a 10X objective. A distance greater than or less than 150mm will have some impact on optimal magnification particularly when using finite objectives. The extent of that impact will depend on how far you deviate from the optimal tube length; but within reason it is okay to move a limited distance in either direction < or >.


Craig

[Sylvain]

How crucial is it to have exactly 150 mm ?

A distance of 146.5mm does not present a problem of relevant concern.
Craig

THANK YOU !

[Pau]

[
I am not taking in account the "chipped" adapter that accepts M42x1 threaded optics on the lens side, and presents an interface to the camera.
It seems that for Nikon this is less suitable and not really needed.

I have read that some Nikon bodies don't meter without a chip while others like D300 do.
Because I don't use Nikon cameras I'm not sure, but other members would give you more precise information.

[Sylvain]

[
I am not taking in account the "chipped" adapter that accepts M42x1 threaded optics on the lens side, and presents an interface to the camera.
It seems that for Nikon this is less suitable and not really needed.

I have read that some Nikon bodies don't meter without a chip while others like D300 do.
Because I don't use Nikon cameras I'm not sure, but other members would give you more precise information.

For "manual" this is not a problem I guess.

[Sylvain]

This is a very reactive forum. I am happy to have found and joined !
As soon as I can start making photographs with the new material, I will share my experiences with all of you.

For the moment here is what I could realize with my Nikon + a very modest binocular tube.
I was already happy until I saw what you guys are able to do...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62671623@N ... otostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62671623@N ... otostream/

[ChrisLilley]

[
I am not taking in account the "chipped" adapter that accepts M42x1 threaded optics on the lens side, and presents an interface to the camera.
It seems that for Nikon this is less suitable and not really needed.

I have read that some Nikon bodies don't meter without a chip while others like D300 do.
Because I don't use Nikon cameras I'm not sure, but other members would give you more precise information.

Lower level Nikon bodies do not have a mechanical aperture follower and so will not meter with old (AI, AIS) lenses. Those bodies require an electronic connection on the lens in order to meter. (They will, however, still give a focus confirm dot, although that is not needed here). Without an electronic connection they will still take a picture, in manual mode, reporting the aperture as f/1 and the focal length as 0 in the exif.

Since the extension tubes don't have aperture indexing (AI) and since the objective does not have a moveable aperture anyway, you won't see a listed aperture with the higher end bodies (D7000 and up) either and you will still be in manual mode. But, using continuous light sources, you will get + and - indicators in the viewfinder to tell you if the exposure is going to be high or low.

With flash you will be taking test shots anyway so judge the exposure on that.

[Chris S.]

Regarding lack of a lens "chip":

For "manual" this is not a problem I guess.

Absolutely not a problem. Many of us are using unchipped rigs.

And as Craig said, matching the 150mm spec isn't necessary. But in my experience with the objective you're showing, I've found it very tolerant of additional extension beyond 150, and less tolerant of lower extension. You're so close to spec that your use doesn't approach the lower extensions I've tried, so I doubt you'll see a huge difference, but if you have an extra bit of extension tube you can add, you might want to try it--even if it takes you out beyond 150.

More importantly, you have added Protostar or other flocking material to your cone-shaped adapter, right? And possibly also to your tubes? Also, your 10x objective has a space in the barrel that benefits from a bit of flocking. This rig will likely perform very differently with and without flocking.

Cheers,

--Chris

PS (Should my and related posts be moved out of the FAQ and into a thread of their own?)

[Sylvain]

[
I am not taking in account the "chipped" adapter that accepts M42x1 threaded optics on the lens side, and presents an interface to the camera.
It seems that for Nikon this is less suitable and not really needed.

I have read that some Nikon bodies don't meter without a chip while others like D300 do.
Because I don't use Nikon cameras I'm not sure, but other members would give you more precise information.

Lower level Nikon bodies do not have a mechanical aperture follower and so will not meter with old (AI, AIS) lenses. Those bodies require an electronic connection on the lens in order to meter. (They will, however, still give a focus confirm dot, although that is not needed here). Without an electronic connection they will still take a picture, in manual mode, reporting the aperture as f/1 and the focal length as 0 in the exif.

Since the extension tubes don't have aperture indexing (AI) and since the objective does not have a moveable aperture anyway, you won't see a listed aperture with the higher end bodies (D7000 and up) either and you will still be in manual mode. But, using continuous light sources, you will get + and - indicators in the viewfinder to tell you if the exposure is going to be high or low.

With flash you will be taking test shots anyway so judge the exposure on that.

Nikon D90 ?

[rjlittlefield]

PS (Should my and related posts be moved out of the FAQ and into a thread of their own?)

At some point, yes, and then I'll summarize in the FAQ whatever seems appropriate. But for now the conversation might as well continue here, where participants expect to find it.

--Rik

[ChrisLilley]

Nikon D90 ?

Will not meter.

D40, D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D70, D80, D90, D5000, D5100, D100 will not meter.

D200, D300, D300s, D7000, D700, D3, D3s, D3x will meter

But as I said, you are in mode M either way so the lack of metering is not really a problem and you are better to judge the lighting from a test shot anyway.

[johan]

Found this using a search, exactly the question I had. Very useful, thank you.

[claus-j]

Hi,
I have actually just bought the Nikon CFI Plan Achromat 10X NA 0.25 objective and are looking for a RMS adapter to it.

The thread measures 24mm - is that standard RMS?

Any clue where to find a step-up adapter 24-52mm or 24-77mm?

Kind regards,
Claus

[Planapo]

Hi Claus, and welcome aboard!

This adapter should serve your needs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-CFI-M25-m ... 53e2cfcbbd

--Betty

[conkar]

Hi Claus, and welcome aboard!
This adapter should serve your needs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-CFI-M25-m ... 53e2cfcbbd
--Betty

I think Mr R.J upgraded that adapter, and the one he now shipping has the same quality as the M26 to M52.

The one that I got exchanged for a adapter with bad threading was excellent.

Regards,

Conny

[rjlittlefield]

I have actually just bought the Nikon CFI Plan Achromat 10X NA 0.25 objective and are looking for a RMS adapter to it.

The thread measures 24mm - is that standard RMS?

To clarify: the thread is nominally 25mm, not 24mm. The unit I have in hand right now measures 24.89 mm OD on the threads. No, it's not RMS; that's only about 20.25 mm.

--Rik