Cymatics (sound wave visualized with water)
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Cymatics (sound wave visualized with water)
Sound wave visualized with water as medium and lit by a weak LED ring flash with gel colors. Thank you, Mr. Linden Gledhill, for teaching me the how-to's.
Everyone should check out Linden's expert professional work in his Flickr albums (his cymatics photos are strikingly beautiful):
www.flickr.com/photos/13084997@N03/albums/72157664382425281
This photo here is not quite there rig (my cymatics rig is still being improved upon), but I found this image interesting enough to share.
Cymatics 1 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
P6201068j2 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
Cymatics 2 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
Everyone should check out Linden's expert professional work in his Flickr albums (his cymatics photos are strikingly beautiful):
www.flickr.com/photos/13084997@N03/albums/72157664382425281
This photo here is not quite there rig (my cymatics rig is still being improved upon), but I found this image interesting enough to share.
Cymatics 1 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
P6201068j2 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
Cymatics 2 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
Thank you. Mr. Linden Gledhill taught me what I know so far and he said he does not reach everyone everything. So you would have to ask Linden to allow me to let know you the details that he taught me.apt403 wrote:Killer! Are the details of your rig documented anywhere? I'd love to check it out.
I am also in the process of changing my entire rig, because its previous form is VERY painfully inefficient at producing stable water waves. I have not fully figure it out yet. Linden's rig is a bit more elaborate and expensive than mine; I am hoping to use cheap off-the-shelf parts to get close to his results, but I have to figure out those different things one by one myself).
Right now, I am trying to make / stretch out a drum- tight membrane cheaply, using part of a balloon. This is only 50% done (hopefully I can make the other half without breaking it again). I just ran out of that super strong Nashua waterproof tape (need to buy more tomorrow):
If you are really interested, please check back with me in a week or so.
Gents,
Suggestions on xenon ring speedlites are highly appreciated, if you could. I need a cheap battery-powered full circle xenon ring flash, with less than 24v of trigger voltage, center trigger pin positive (like Canon, I heard Nikon ones have reversed polarity). To be used on an Olympus E-M1 mk1. Manual is good enough; no TTL or HSS is needed.
For example, I know Canon version of Sunpak DX-8R (eBay ID # 133068447173) may work, if its voltage is low. The bottom connector module that says "CA-2D for Canon" can be removed from the universal controller above.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wccAAOSw ... -l1600.jpg
The central controller, which is likely the same for all brand version, according to a forum member who owns an Olympus OM version, uses 6.7v (so I would expect the Canon version will use less than 24v for triggering): https://www.mu-43.com/threads/continuou ... -3.104477/
For this light source: I am guessing doing the exact opposite as in insect macro may work best.
Sorry for being so tight lip about the rest. Linden does this as part of his commercial work, so I should not disclose anything from him without his permission.
Suggestions on xenon ring speedlites are highly appreciated, if you could. I need a cheap battery-powered full circle xenon ring flash, with less than 24v of trigger voltage, center trigger pin positive (like Canon, I heard Nikon ones have reversed polarity). To be used on an Olympus E-M1 mk1. Manual is good enough; no TTL or HSS is needed.
For example, I know Canon version of Sunpak DX-8R (eBay ID # 133068447173) may work, if its voltage is low. The bottom connector module that says "CA-2D for Canon" can be removed from the universal controller above.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wccAAOSw ... -l1600.jpg
The central controller, which is likely the same for all brand version, according to a forum member who owns an Olympus OM version, uses 6.7v (so I would expect the Canon version will use less than 24v for triggering): https://www.mu-43.com/threads/continuou ... -3.104477/
For this light source: I am guessing doing the exact opposite as in insect macro may work best.
Sorry for being so tight lip about the rest. Linden does this as part of his commercial work, so I should not disclose anything from him without his permission.
Last edited by zzffnn on Mon Jun 24, 2019 3:20 pm, edited 3 times in total.
I found my first upload to be too dark on my phone screen (sorry, neither my computer screen or phone screen is well calibrated), so I made a new version (please tell me which one looks better on your screen):
Original:
Cymatics 1 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
Original:
Cymatics 1 by Fan Zhang, on Flickr
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... interesting. Top image looks best on my monitor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3oItpVa9fs
-JW:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3oItpVa9fs
-JW:
10-4 - I may have to reach out to Linden Gledhill and ask for his permission, this is a very interesting technique!
On my calibrated monitor I prefer the original; on a smartphone screen I prefer the revised version, but the highlights are a little strong for my taste (note it's very, very subtle). I can empathize with you here! I've taken to producing two versions of most of my images - Smartphone screens seem to crush blacks and shadow detail to a great degree.
On my calibrated monitor I prefer the original; on a smartphone screen I prefer the revised version, but the highlights are a little strong for my taste (note it's very, very subtle). I can empathize with you here! I've taken to producing two versions of most of my images - Smartphone screens seem to crush blacks and shadow detail to a great degree.
Thank you, apt403. If you do ask Linden, please ask him what he does NOT want me to disclose, if any.
I made some progress and got a better wave shape or two, which looks similar to this one from Linden:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/13084997@ ... 382425281/
However, I had to use a 5mm water reservoir (which means 3x magnification on sensor for me) and loud volume (so loud that I had to wear ear plugs). And my shapes/patterns seem less diverse than Linden's.
It seems that membrane tightness / flexibility and revervoir design are key to success.
I would appreciate suggestions. Those would know physics, especially those related to sound waves and speaker design, would help greatly.
I made some progress and got a better wave shape or two, which looks similar to this one from Linden:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/13084997@ ... 382425281/
However, I had to use a 5mm water reservoir (which means 3x magnification on sensor for me) and loud volume (so loud that I had to wear ear plugs). And my shapes/patterns seem less diverse than Linden's.
It seems that membrane tightness / flexibility and revervoir design are key to success.
I would appreciate suggestions. Those would know physics, especially those related to sound waves and speaker design, would help greatly.
Hi Fan, you are definitely getting there. It's critical to ensure the membrane is at the same tension in all dimension or else the shapes won't be symmetrical. Heat shrink film is the best. You can see my cymatic machine here https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =3&theater
Linden Gledhill http://www.flickr.com/photos/13084997@N03/
Thank you very much, Linden.Linden.g wrote:Hi Fan, you are definitely getting there. It's critical to ensure the membrane is at the same tension in all dimension or else the shapes won't be symmetrical. Heat shrink film is the best. You can see my cymatic machine here https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =3&theater
I found the membrane / tension / flexibility part difficult to replicate. Your design is very nice and uses a clever circular clamp mechanism, which makes it possible to evenly distributed tension. My wood frame definitely does not exert perfectly symmetrical tension.
Please let me know the rough cost to 3D print your frame for membrane: even if I cannot afford to make it, someone else may.
In my case, I don't know how much I should heat shrink (stretch) the membrane. I found that tension has to be just right; too much or too little would not produce stable standing wave. It would easier to replicate your success, if such amount of "just right" tension can be somehow quantified.
I also could not find black shrink film locally. Would painting clear ones work (if I paint it after heat shrinking; yes, I know this may change vibration frequency)? Those good online shrink films seem to cost $100 for a huge roll.