I recently caught a mouse that way...rjlittlefield wrote:Once upon a time, I found myself without a net and wanting to catch some butterflies. In desperation I tried a small clear plastic bag, and found to my surprise that it worked great! My speculation is that the bag was transparent enough that the butterflies did not perceive it as a threat. Many of them did not even react as I slowly lowered the bag around them. Have you checked to see if completely clear plastic cups would work even better with your flies?BugEZ wrote:...catch directly into a cup...
--Rik
It came from the mist!
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--- felix filicis ---
Rik wrote
I have seen a difference in my fly stalking when I wear different shirts. Some are definitely better camouflage than others. Doli are highly visual.
Lou Jost wrote
https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/201 ... een-blood/
Keith
No, but it is certainly worth a try.Have you checked to see if clear cups work better?
I have seen a difference in my fly stalking when I wear different shirts. Some are definitely better camouflage than others. Doli are highly visual.
Lou Jost wrote
True. Red blood in hemoglobin based animals, green blood in copper based Vulcans... More seriously, an internet search disclosed lizards on some island with green blood. Astonishing!Some traits are accidental consequence
https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/201 ... een-blood/
Keith
Another observation...
When I was attempting to "pose" the fly, I basically gave up because the
legs met at a central point under the abdomen. I was wanting to spread
the legs so the fly would at least be free-standing, but I simply could not
do this. I ended up using "closed" tweezers to hold the legs.
Any thoughts on how to spread the legs and the material to use to keep
the legs in place?
I use foam as some insects have fine structures that "grab" the foam,
keeping the legs still. That is how I did the stink bug, and after hardening,
I was able to let it sit naturally.
Mike
When I was attempting to "pose" the fly, I basically gave up because the
legs met at a central point under the abdomen. I was wanting to spread
the legs so the fly would at least be free-standing, but I simply could not
do this. I ended up using "closed" tweezers to hold the legs.
Any thoughts on how to spread the legs and the material to use to keep
the legs in place?
I use foam as some insects have fine structures that "grab" the foam,
keeping the legs still. That is how I did the stink bug, and after hardening,
I was able to let it sit naturally.
Mike
Fly taxidermy is not a skill I have acquired. If I want to photograph legs I affix a toothpick to the back of the abdomen and settle for the rigor mortise bequeathed leg pose. My normal technique is to affix the ends of the legs with nail polish to a toothpick. My stacking rig is designed for bugs affixed to a toothpick. If I want a natural pose, I do single shots in the field and not stacks. Can’t be much help I’m afraid.
Normal Glue job
dmap stereo border by Keith Short, on Flickr
Field photo
P1280077 by Keith Short, on Flickr
Normal Glue job
dmap stereo border by Keith Short, on Flickr
Field photo
P1280077 by Keith Short, on Flickr
Sorry for going out of topic, but regarding rigor mortise and leg posing, this helps:
1. Kill in alcohol or acetone;
2. Remove killed insect right away, spread legs right away (under macroscope if necessary), pin down/hold legs with insect pins or map pins onto a tiny foam block.
3. Invert foam block (insect side down) and submerge it into 5% white vinegar for about 24 hrs. Vinegar inactives many enzymes that cause color changes.
4. Submerge insect with foam block in alcohol solution of gradually escalateing concentration. Different insect needs different escalation (75% one time works perfectly for beetles, but may shrink a spider or a fly).
5. Air dry for a week. Finally remove pins. Insect legs would look relatively natural that way.
1. Kill in alcohol or acetone;
2. Remove killed insect right away, spread legs right away (under macroscope if necessary), pin down/hold legs with insect pins or map pins onto a tiny foam block.
3. Invert foam block (insect side down) and submerge it into 5% white vinegar for about 24 hrs. Vinegar inactives many enzymes that cause color changes.
4. Submerge insect with foam block in alcohol solution of gradually escalateing concentration. Different insect needs different escalation (75% one time works perfectly for beetles, but may shrink a spider or a fly).
5. Air dry for a week. Finally remove pins. Insect legs would look relatively natural that way.