Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

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rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

Ultima_Gaina wrote:The 10mm segment has no flocking and the same diameter as the other tubes. I remember having tried the FF camera before (with the 10mm segment included) and there was no vignetting.
I expect the other tubes are flocked, and I can see a rough edge on the vignette consistent with flocking.

It is the absence of flocking on the 10mm tube, leaving a larger clear diameter, that makes the vignette go away. The extra extension does give some more magnification, but if the extension were flocked also, giving a smaller clear diameter, the vignette would still be there.

If I had this problem and I wanted to work at large NA where the extra extension could be problematic, then I would remove a 10 mm strip of flocking around the end of the 50mm tube, and omit the extra extension.

--Rik

Ultima_Gaina
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Post by Ultima_Gaina »

rjlittlefield wrote:
Ultima_Gaina wrote:The 10mm segment has no flocking and the same diameter as the other tubes. I remember having tried the FF camera before (with the 10mm segment included) and there was no vignetting.
I expect the other tubes are flocked, and I can see a rough edge on the vignette consistent with flocking.

It is the absence of flocking on the 10mm tube, leaving a larger clear diameter, that makes the vignette go away. The extra extension does give some more magnification, but if the extension were flocked also, giving a smaller clear diameter, the vignette would still be there.

If I had this problem and I wanted to work at large NA where the extra extension could be problematic, then I would remove a 10 mm strip of flocking around the end of the 50mm tube, and omit the extra extension.

--Rik
I shaved off 5mm and the vignetting is gone (with 3mm it was still there)!

Rik, hats off! This is perfect now!

You are the best!

Image

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

Excellent -- I'm very happy to hear that it's working well for you now.

One thing to keep in mind for future use: some vignette may return if you move the objective farther away from the tube lens, or if you use an objective that provides an effective aperture that is much wider than the f/22 that you're using now.

The reasons are different in those two cases. If the objective is moved farther away from the tube lens, then the exit pupil of the combo moves farther out also. This causes the light cones that construct the corners of the image to become more parallel with the optical axis, so the shadows of the flocking will move inward and may reach the corners of the frame. If you use a wider aperture, then the outermost rays of each cone for the corners of the image will be more parallel to the optical axis, so those rays may get blocked.

A reasonable approach in both cases would be to shave off some more mm of thick flocking. But I wouldn't do that until I saw a problem.

--Rik

santiago
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Post by santiago »

Great posts on this topic lately, a lot of good info :)
Santiago
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lothman
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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by lothman »

Hello,

a question to the community. As far as I read here in forums reversing the Raynox DCR-150 improves things and also adding some distance between microscope lens and tube lens improves results.

So for those of us who would like to use a reversed Raynox DCR-150 as tube lens and Mitutoyo microscope lens, a modified Rafcamera-Adapter would be handy.

this version
https://rafcamera.com/adapter-m26f-to-m42x1m-cone
Image

could be had with M43x0,75 female thread instead of the M42x1 male thread, so the reversed Raynox DCR-150 could be screw into directly.

I asked rafcamera and if we get 5 interested people, they would make the adapter to similar costs ( estimated around 30$ +-).

I would need two of them, so who else is interested?

regards
Lothar

Admin edit, 13 Nov 2022, RJL, to fix broken links for rafcamera.com

Milou
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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by Milou »

Hello,
I've just spent 1 hour at least, reading this very interesting file about a setup first explained by scarodactyl and with a lot of further adds and information. Thank again for showing with details such things :D

As I already have Raynox lens, below and different rings and also microscope plan objectives, I also would try such a setup......

But I've some questions about it :
- has anyone used similar setup with a M4/3 instead of a reflex camera?
- use of a 160 instead of an infinite objective is also possible ? ( I remember to have seen in this forum examples of pictures made with a cheap "chinese" plan objective, but I could'nt found them again....to many post :wink: )

Thank's for your help

Pau
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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by Pau »

Here you have the most comprehensive thread, and our usual reference:
viewtopic.php?p=76195#p76195 now 10 years old

You can use a finite corrected objective but without tube lens. You can use a m4/3 camera just put the sensor at the right distance of the objective shoulder (150mm for 160 marked and 200mm for Nikon CF 210 marked, although with low magnification objectives you can play altering that distance to alter magnification)
Of course with a small sensor the image will be more cropped than with a DSLR if the magnification on sensor is the same.
Pau

Scarodactyl
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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by Scarodactyl »

I would use a shorter tube lens on m4/3. No need to waste that big (and expensive) image circle by cropping it all.

Milou
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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by Milou »

Thank you for this interesting link and information about m4/3 camera
I'll try like this.....

redbeard Zeng
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回复:带羊群的Raynox DCR-150管组件

Post by redbeard Zeng »

Thank you very much for your sharing。

andedk
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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by andedk »

Thank you for this post explaining, in detail, how to set up the Mitutoyo M Plan Apo objective with a camera. I have secured funding to purchase objective and supporting rings, tubes, and lenses. I have a question about a couple of the items needed.

1. The piece closest to the objective (#12) is listed as: 52mm to objective thread adapter (52mm male, objective thread female)
I am not coming up with anything I recognize when I search for this. Is there another description I might add to find this?

2. Both #8 and #9 in the list are referred to as "52mm to 43mm "step down" rings. How are these different? Again, should I search more specifically for the phrase "female-to-female reverse adapter"?

3. For #7, the Raynox-DCR-150 comes up as a snap on. But in the photo (and assemble videos I have watched), it didn't seem to be a snap on. Do I want a snap on? If not, suggestions for finding a non-snap on version?


Everything else made sense. I am super excited to try out this new system.
Thank you everyone for your input/help.

andedk

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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by rjlittlefield »

andedk, I'm glad this thread was helpful.

Addressing your questions...
andedk wrote:
Mon Jun 26, 2023 7:13 am
1. The piece closest to the objective (#12) is listed as: 52mm to objective thread adapter (52mm male, objective thread female)
I am not coming up with anything I recognize when I search for this. Is there another description I might add to find this?
Different objectives have different threads, so what you need is to specify the exact thread for the objective that you have. The most common threads are RMS, 25mm, and 26mm. (More details at viewtopic.php?f=29&t=11710 .)

In the example shown, that gold-colored Nikon objective uses a 25 mm thread, so I would be looking for keywords like "52 mm 25mm objective adapter". On ebay, that finds for example https://www.ebay.com/itm/222761714577 . Mitutoyo M Plan Apo objectives use 26 mm threads, finding https://www.ebay.com/itm/165634680076 , and so on.

2. Both #8 and #9 in the list are referred to as "52mm to 43mm "step down" rings. How are these different? Again, should I search more specifically for the phrase "female-to-female reverse adapter"?
I'm confused. In the posting that starts this thread, what I read is
8. 52mm to 43mm "step down" ring (52mm male, 43mm female, used in reverse to fit the 43mm male threads on the normal rear of the Raynox)
9. 55mm to 52mm "step down" ring with through threads, used here as a 52mm-52mm female-female reverse adapter
The effect of these two rings, used together, is to turn the 43 mm male thread on normal rear of the Raynox into a 52mm female thread into which the objective adapter, part #12, can be screwed.

For part #9, in principle you could go looking for a 52mm-52mm female-female reverse adapter. But such searches usually fail because such parts are rare and search engines don't do anything useful with repeated terms. It is more practical to just go looking for a ring with 52mm female threads that go clear through, as shown by the product pictures. An example is https://www.ebay.com/itm/252321986118 .

3. For #7, the Raynox-DCR-150 comes up as a snap on. But in the photo (and assemble videos I have watched), it didn't seem to be a snap on. Do I want a snap on? If not, suggestions for finding a non-snap on version?
It's not clear from Raynox literature, but the lens has screw threads and the spring-loaded snap-on adapter is a separate part that comes in the same box. The spring-loaded adaptor is set aside and not used in this application.

--Rik

andedk
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Re: Raynox DCR-150 tube assembly with flocking

Post by andedk »

Thank you so very much!

andedk

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