Nikon 1x 0.1 WD 35 AZ PlanApo (Help)

[Smokedaddy]

After all these years here on the forum, I hate to acknowledge that I've never configured a tube lens. I should note that Pau sent me quite a bit of information on this objective series, but I didn't understand how to use that information, so the reason for this posting. It "appears" I need a tube lens configuration to make this work? So now for the story. A friend gave me an AZ Plan APO 1x. I was under the impression that I could design an adapter for mounting this objective and making a direct projection to my Canon 50D sensor. I "was" going to make a dovetail adapter for my MM-11 "nosepiece" and adapted the objective that way. But I changed my mind and designed an adapter that mounts "to" my MM-11's vertical dovetail instead. I also created, and 3D printed a lambda plate cap for the end of the 1x objective. After all this effort, It became apparent that I didn't know what I was doing since the image outcome was terrible. Nothing was in focus when I tried something other than a metal scale ruler, nor could I achieve sharp focus anywhere. By changing RAF M42x1 tubes, I was able to find the correct lengths to acquire 1.2x magnification (not that it matters) nearly. I'm looking for some hand-holding from those with the knowledge, plus the components I need. Below I've attached a few images of my adapters simply because I went to the effort to design and 3D print them that ended up useless for this particular setup.  

-JW: 

Update: I know about the downfalls of this objective, its image circle etc., I just want to know how to use it.

[Lou Jost]

I have a similar gigantic Leitz version. It does need a tube lens, but even then, it exhibits all kinds of weird effects. I would love to know if these crazy objectives can be tamed in a DIY setting. I can get nice results with a long tube lens but to get the nominal magnification, a short tube lens (in my case, 40mm or 80mm) is called for, and that's when all the edge craziness starts. There is also something I call "exaggerated perspective". I hope someone can give you/us some help on this!

Pau has gotten some very nice results with his version.

Looking at your photos, I think you are very very much too far away from the subject. Maybe it is just positioned to let us see it better, and you normally use it closer. But even the yellow printed holder at the end of the objective looks to me like it will take up almost all the working distance. Leitz thinks the working distance on mine is so small that it can only be used with transmitted light.

[Smokedaddy]

Like I said, I've never configured a tube lens. I haven't a clue what I need but am more than willing to try.

-JW:

[Scarodactyl]

This objective is designed to take in the image at the front and shoot a collimated/infinity-focused image out the back. As such you just need a second lens above the objective, focused to infinity, to take those rays and put them on your camera sensor. Otherwise you're pushing the lens out of spec by forcing it to produce a finite focused image out the back which as you've found it doesn't like.
The AZ plan objectives are supposed to also be compatible with the Leica Z series. I don't remember who said it off the top of my head but the 1x AZ plan apo was very similar to the 0.8x Plan Apo from the Leica Z series. The Z series' reference focal length for 1x is 100mm, so you can assume the correct focal length for getting 1x with this lens is ~80mm just as Lou Jost said.
One thing to keep in mind is that coverage on this system is just not very wide, so there are limits on what you can expect. The main benefit of a macroscope system is allowing for stereomicroscope-like ergonomics with a zoom and eyepieces.
Just as a general note the AZ 1x is a bit underspecced vs other 1x macroscope objectives. The Leica Z series 1x has a slightly higher NA (0.117) and also a significantly longer working distance (97mm). This was no doubt an intentional decision--first to make it easier to design parfocal higher-mag objectives (the original Leica Z series objectives are not parfocal with one another, and only their later 5x is parfocal with the 2x; the objective changer is an exotic and ultra expensive addon). It might have also made adding DIC (a very exotic feature on a macroscope!) more feasible(?). I know your expectations are already tempered, just wanted to throw it out there.

[Smokedaddy]

Thanks. So to clarify, I need a lens around 80mm and adapted the Nikon 1x objective to the end of it?

-JW:

[Scarodactyl]

Yup.

[Smokedaddy]

Yup.

Since I've never done this before, is the distance from the 1x objective flange to the optical glass on the lens critical? If so, how critical measurement wise? I have a Canon L 70-200mm which I assume will work? I need to make something.

Thanks,
-JW:

[Scarodactyl]

Usually it isn't very important since it's focused to infinity, though it will vary from objective to objective, tube lens to tube lens how much it matters.

[Smokedaddy]

Thanks. I'm going to design something else and try using my Canon L 70-200mm.

[rjlittlefield]

The Leica Z series 1x has a higher NA (1.23)

I'm thinking that some typo has crept into the number, a misplaced decimal point perhaps?

--Rik

[Scarodactyl]

The Leica Z series 1x has a higher NA (1.23)

I'm thinking that some typo has crept into the number, a misplaced decimal point perhaps?

--Rik

Maybe

[rjlittlefield]

At viewtopic.php?p=106810#p106810 , Charlie Krebs posted some good data about the Leica Planapo 2.0X. It maxes out at NA 0.224 when zoomed to the highest magnification. At lower magnifications the zoom system also stops down the aperture, presumably to maintain maximum DOF with whatever sharpness they are targeting.

--Rik

[Scarodactyl]

That data is with the Z16 body, which (aside from its exceptional zoom ratio) is optically inferior to the Z6. On the Z6 the NA with the 2x tops out at a slightly higher 0.234, and it achieves that NA at a nominal magnification of 7.2x (more accurately 9x with the added 1.25x of pairing it with a macroscope head's 200mm tube lens).
A Z6 with a 2x objective is kind of like having a Mitutoyo 5x and 10x that you can zoom between while also being able to go down to about 1.5x, though with worse coverage (at least how I have it set up, adapted to a Wild M400 head, it vignettes at lowest mag when direct projected to aps-c and corners are weak overall--a different tube lens situation might improve that).

[Pau]

The tube lens (TL) is just a lens focused to infinite.
The objective is placed at its front, the distance between them is not critical. Few cm wold be OK.

Your Canon zoom is good for the task at its longest focal.
With it at 200mm you will be close to 1x. The problem is the small high quality image circle with AZ objectives, you need at least 2X to 3X for APSC. This is why I suggested the use of a teleconverter with the TL.

Other two relevant aspects:
- the thickness of your optical window, mine is 2mm, and yours?
- the parfocal distance is 100mm in the AZ objectives excepted the 0.5X

[Pau]

.... when zoomed to the highest magnification. At lower magnifications the zoom system also stops down the aperture, presumably to maintain maximum DOF with whatever sharpness they are targeting.

It's about the same with the AZ100 zoom body. At low to medium magnification there is a diaphragm linked to the zoom mechanics that limits the aperture and there is another diaphragm manually operated.