Need Input on Studio Setup
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Need Input on Studio Setup
I am finally in a spot to build a little studio in my office. It will be for 1:4 to 10:1, with the occasional still life, perhaps.
I am anticipating shooting tethered most of the time, composing and focusing with an external screen.
I am soliciting guidance on the form and structure of the table/bench/whatever, that will form the main shooting surface.
What do you like and dislike about your current setups, and what would you do now, were you to start again?
TIA
John
I am anticipating shooting tethered most of the time, composing and focusing with an external screen.
I am soliciting guidance on the form and structure of the table/bench/whatever, that will form the main shooting surface.
What do you like and dislike about your current setups, and what would you do now, were you to start again?
TIA
John
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
Where are you located John?
Sometimes in Silicon Valley in California you can find optical benches with aluminum rails and breadboard top for very little. Very Slick.
I've picked up complete scopes like a Nikon MM or Optem for $200.
Of course if you have to ship something like this the price really goes up.
Best,
Robert
Sometimes in Silicon Valley in California you can find optical benches with aluminum rails and breadboard top for very little. Very Slick.
I've picked up complete scopes like a Nikon MM or Optem for $200.
Of course if you have to ship something like this the price really goes up.
Best,
Robert
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
I am near Toronto.
I had been looking at tables at a surplus place. I just pulled the trigger on a unit that looks like it will work well. Not a breadboard top. I can add one if I feel I need it at some future point.
Thanks Robert!
![Image](https://www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260007.jpg)
![Image](https://www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260009_1.jpg)
![Image](https://www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260012.jpg)
![Image](src=%22https%3A//www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260010.jpg%22)
I had been looking at tables at a surplus place. I just pulled the trigger on a unit that looks like it will work well. Not a breadboard top. I can add one if I feel I need it at some future point.
Thanks Robert!
![Image](https://www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260007.jpg)
![Image](https://www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260009_1.jpg)
![Image](https://www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260012.jpg)
![Image](src=%22https%3A//www.torontosurplus.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/b/pb260010.jpg%22)
Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
I like vertical set-ups based on microscope focusing blocks driven by WeMacro MicroMates. Very stable, and easy to switch out lenses and cameras. In some situations vertical set-ups let you use unthreaded or odd-threaded lenses, using just gravity to hold things together.
Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
where is the camera going to be?
far as i can see with your keyboard on the table slide out and ill assume your monitar on the top
and the camera in the glass/plex glass on the bottom.
your going to want it open not closed up with glass so you can move things around
the second thing your stuck hunched over when doing things inside the glass box( you will hate it i know)
third thing no adjustment to move shelf up or down if you decide to later,
forth thing is your going to want more room, you may do macro now but maybe take some product shots later that may need more distance between the camera and object,
not sure on how well your lights are going to reflex off the shinny metal and reflective glass.
even if the wheels like down it will still move if you bump the cage.
your going to want to see the hole thing >camera> object not sure how that will work when your sitting at the desk and its all down by your feet.
here is one i did it has adjustable shelf the hole set up is heavy duty about $35 its not one of them flimsy shelf it has some weight to it i wraped some of the chrome bar in black tape,
when im sitting down the camera is at eye level, my object/macro fly sits on the ($10) jack table i move up or down
and the ($20) slider is control on the back of the camera to move left or right
or front to back., camera has a ($20)ball head for tilt and pan.
sitting on about 10 pound chop block wood ($25)
the ($12)umbrella keeps dust from falling on the object, the ($20)anvil weight about 20 pounds i use it with magnet to attach thing
the cage you can clip on any thing you want
and im using CRI+95 NO FLicker lights 4 bulbs for about $20 bucks each has there own on and off swtich($20)
couple of surge protector ($25)
bottom i put a black mat tray to store my stuff and it has its own light over top of the mat tray ($25)
the hole thing is sitting on a storage tub tied with tie straps, it slides not rolls.
i did add a larger view monitar it has built in peaking and histogram and some other stuff($99)
i live in a RV and on a windy day the camper move but no problem yet taking stacks of macro shots,
i do not shoot off a focus rail i have fuji xt-3 camera its built in to take shots from the nearest to the furthest focus point,
it works like a macro rail but its not a macro rail it can take 100s of shots in seconds
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51211089332_f09b48a6d2_c.jpg)
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51152171393_ee6ebcd5d3_w.jpg)
i use viltrox lens with raynox dipoter which you can stack, i have one raynox DCR-150
and two
Raynox DCR-250 2.5x Super Macro Lens
and stack all my images with Helicon Focus 7 software
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51017860495_67156aa140_b.jpg)
far as i can see with your keyboard on the table slide out and ill assume your monitar on the top
and the camera in the glass/plex glass on the bottom.
your going to want it open not closed up with glass so you can move things around
the second thing your stuck hunched over when doing things inside the glass box( you will hate it i know)
third thing no adjustment to move shelf up or down if you decide to later,
forth thing is your going to want more room, you may do macro now but maybe take some product shots later that may need more distance between the camera and object,
not sure on how well your lights are going to reflex off the shinny metal and reflective glass.
even if the wheels like down it will still move if you bump the cage.
your going to want to see the hole thing >camera> object not sure how that will work when your sitting at the desk and its all down by your feet.
here is one i did it has adjustable shelf the hole set up is heavy duty about $35 its not one of them flimsy shelf it has some weight to it i wraped some of the chrome bar in black tape,
when im sitting down the camera is at eye level, my object/macro fly sits on the ($10) jack table i move up or down
and the ($20) slider is control on the back of the camera to move left or right
or front to back., camera has a ($20)ball head for tilt and pan.
sitting on about 10 pound chop block wood ($25)
the ($12)umbrella keeps dust from falling on the object, the ($20)anvil weight about 20 pounds i use it with magnet to attach thing
the cage you can clip on any thing you want
and im using CRI+95 NO FLicker lights 4 bulbs for about $20 bucks each has there own on and off swtich($20)
couple of surge protector ($25)
bottom i put a black mat tray to store my stuff and it has its own light over top of the mat tray ($25)
the hole thing is sitting on a storage tub tied with tie straps, it slides not rolls.
i did add a larger view monitar it has built in peaking and histogram and some other stuff($99)
i live in a RV and on a windy day the camper move but no problem yet taking stacks of macro shots,
i do not shoot off a focus rail i have fuji xt-3 camera its built in to take shots from the nearest to the furthest focus point,
it works like a macro rail but its not a macro rail it can take 100s of shots in seconds
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51211089332_f09b48a6d2_c.jpg)
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51152171393_ee6ebcd5d3_w.jpg)
i use viltrox lens with raynox dipoter which you can stack, i have one raynox DCR-150
and two
Raynox DCR-250 2.5x Super Macro Lens
and stack all my images with Helicon Focus 7 software
![Image](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51017860495_67156aa140_b.jpg)
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
So far! Was going to mention I have some extra Z columns, stands, spare MM-11 etc, too many to mention but shipping would be cost than the unit itself. Never mind.
Keep on the lookout for Mitutoyo finescope bases/stands/columns. Also Prior or Semprex Corp stands + Mitutoyo blocks + XY stages. These sell for ridiculous prices. I have a nice semprex with a very tall column an XY table with concentric control, both XY with a single knob. Paid almost nothing for it.
Optical breadboards work great. I mount Arca-swiss style QR plates upside-down with the supplied 1/4-20 hex and then clamp a articulating arm onto that to hold things/lights/clamps. The plates work great since you can loosen the clamp and just slide to re-position.
I had been looking at tables at a surplus place. I just pulled the trigger on a unit that looks like it will work well. Not a breadboard top. I can add one if I feel I need it at some future point.
Optical rails mount in a second and are very nice for horizontal setups.
Tried wood blocks, steel plates, and granite blocks as a work top and for me optical breadboards make the most sense.
Hope this helps.
Best,
Robert
Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
I recommend keeping the computer/keyboard on a different table. The fan vibrates, and your keystrokes might also vibrate the set-up.
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
Thanks, guys, this is very helpful.
I'll use the top as the photo target platform. I might use the inside for storage. There will be no computer mounted in the table - maybe a small monitor attached.
I might replace the top with breadboard, add cantilevered extrusions to support a longer setup, or otherwise modify it, but I needed a start point.
I have various positioning options that I will use with the table.
I'll use the top as the photo target platform. I might use the inside for storage. There will be no computer mounted in the table - maybe a small monitor attached.
I might replace the top with breadboard, add cantilevered extrusions to support a longer setup, or otherwise modify it, but I needed a start point.
I have various positioning options that I will use with the table.
-
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 6:57 am
Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
Optical breadboards work great. I mount Arca-swiss style QR plates upside-down with the supplied 1/4-20 hex and then clamp a articulating arm onto that to hold things/lights/clamps. The plates work great since you can loosen the clamp and just slide to re-position.
Robert - is an M6-threaded breadboard a viable option, or should I stick to an imperial thread diameter?
Also, are there any photos of your studio on your website?
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
Mix and match, it'll save you a lot of money. You're in Canada, right? Chances are the boards you can get are metric. Thorlabs offer metric/imperial screw adaptors. You can get the arca plate type screw, the one with a smooth section, in metric from Hejnar, I have around 10, it was $4 each I think. This allows you to directly mount the rails to the board.JohnDownie wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 12:09 pmRobert - is an M6-threaded breadboard a viable option, or should I stick to an imperial thread diameter?
Thorlabs' XT66 rail system is compatible with Arca-swiss.
This clamp is universal -- eBay item number:153758962900
I love it so much, I have 10 of them. Dial won't get in the way, secure it with 2 screws via the long cutout slot and mount plates on it.
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
Thank you so much!Macro_Cosmos wrote: ↑Thu Jun 03, 2021 3:06 am
Mix and match, it'll save you a lot of money. You're in Canada, right? Chances are the boards you can get are metric. Thorlabs offer metric/imperial screw adaptors. You can get the arca plate type screw, the one with a smooth section, in metric from Hejnar, I have around 10, it was $4 each I think. This allows you to directly mount the rails to the board.
Thorlabs' XT66 rail system is compatible with Arca-swiss.
This clamp is universal -- eBay item number:153758962900
I love it so much, I have 10 of them. Dial won't get in the way, secure it with 2 screws via the long cutout slot and mount plates on it.
I pulled the trigger on a 600mm x 450mm Thorlabs metric breadboard. Listed as new, half off retail, with $40 shipping to Canada, so pretty good. I am going to figure out where I want to position it relative to the existing top. Gotta love t-slot extrusions.
I couldn't see the M6 captive screws on Chris's site - I have sent him an email.
Thank you, too, for the other tips - the XT66 looks like a great system. I have at least one of those clamps, but will get more.
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
That's a nice board, just about right in size. Hope it's a Nexus board.JohnDownie wrote: ↑Thu Jun 03, 2021 8:40 amI pulled the trigger on a 600mm x 450mm Thorlabs metric breadboard. Listed as new, half off retail, with $40 shipping to Canada, so pretty good. I am going to figure out where I want to position it relative to the existing top. Gotta love t-slot extrusions.
I couldn't see the M6 captive screws on Chris's site - I have sent him an email.
Thank you, too, for the other tips - the XT66 looks like a great system. I have at least one of those clamps, but will get more.
Yeah, regarding to the M6 captive screws, you'll have to mail him. I think what he does is CNC the 1/4in-20 ones down to M6 since it's a finer thread and slightly smaller. I personally like the heavy duty XT95 system. I do use both.
Good luck with your studio setup!
Oh and anyone in Australia, I have a 500x450 metric Kohzu (Japanese) board that I'm happy to sell. It can be shipped but pickup (Sydney) is a better idea. These boards are practically non-existent here.
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Re: Need Input on Studio Setup
Hi John,
I just made a little overview from my current setup:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=43628
Best regards,
Daniel
I just made a little overview from my current setup:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=43628
Best regards,
Daniel