"Disastrous" (completely unexpected!!) 100x oil immersion objective comparison

[Macro_Cosmos]

Those photos are just amazing, so is the resolution, wow!!!

Silicone oil immersion objectives seem to have even better characteristics than water. Higher NA and greater DOF. I wonder how difficult, or rather annoying the oil is to clean up. Cleaning up immersion oil is a major headache, it also ruins the stickers on the slides.

$200 for 30cc isn't "too bad", one bottle should last at least a year for me.

[Ichthyophthirius]

Silicone oil immersion objectives seem to have even better characteristics than water. Higher NA and greater DOF. I wonder how difficult, or rather annoying the oil is to clean up. Cleaning up immersion oil is a major headache, it also ruins the stickers on the slides.

But only if you object is embedded in optically thick medium, like deep into an embryo or tissue. If you objects are small organisms in water (like a pond sample), there is no advantage over water immersion.

I use this technique to clean off the oil https://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/primer/ana ... igure9.jpg which works also with the objective still attached to the nosepiece. Very fast and clean and you don't get near the oil with your fingers.

[Macro_Cosmos]

Silicone oil immersion objectives seem to have even better characteristics than water. Higher NA and greater DOF. I wonder how difficult, or rather annoying the oil is to clean up. Cleaning up immersion oil is a major headache, it also ruins the stickers on the slides.

But only if you object is embedded in optically thick medium, like deep into an embryo or tissue. If you objects are small organisms in water (like a pond sample), there is no advantage over water immersion.

I use this technique to clean off the oil https://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/primer/ana ... igure9.jpg which works also with the objective still attached to the nosepiece. Very fast and clean and you don't get near the oil with your fingers.

It mainly goes down to cost and availability for me. I will take the available UIS2 one which is cheaper. I know 1 person and 1 company. Person A is selling a 60x water immersion SApo for $2100. Company B listed the 60x SIL, no price, chances are it's cheaper than $2100. However this company also sells a 100x Sapo PH3 ($2000 or so), very rare and welcomed addition, as I already have the DIC prism for 100x. I likely will just get their 100x if I want to splurge on one objective. I can sell my UplanFL and UplanApo 100x to get some kidneys back. Looking at how well the UplanApo 100x performed, I'm guessing the SApo would be better. I think I made a mistake in the top image, listed the wrong objective. The one I have is an NA adjustable objective, 1.35NA max.

I don't really understand that technique. Maybe I'm overthinking it? So a drop or two of cleaning liquid on a piece of lens tissue, then stretch it and run it into the objective?
I always dismount the nosepiece turret and store it in a humidity controlled box. Sydney is quite humid, not nice for objectives.
This is what I generally do:


Getting anything microscope related in Australia is a struggle, lens tissues included. I'm quite conservative with the usage of them. Is there a good way to clean slides? I don't like ruining the labels.

[René]

Is there a good way to clean slides? I don't like ruining the labels.

Polyester film based labels (eg dymo band) works great, all be it a bit coarse in printing with this cheap kind of printers. And properly degrease slides before sticking labels and rub them then thoroughly on the glass. They can withstand oil, alcohol and petrol. Clean immersion oil off slides with toiletpaper and cleaning petrol (zippo lighter fluid comes in a handy small cans!)

HTH,
René

[Macro_Cosmos]

Is there a good way to clean slides? I don't like ruining the labels.

Polyester film based labels (eg dymo band) works great, all be it a bit coarse in printing with this cheap kind of printers. And properly degrease slides before sticking labels and rub them then thoroughly on the glass. They can withstand oil, alcohol and petrol. Clean immersion oil off slides with toiletpaper and cleaning petrol (zippo lighter fluid comes in a handy small cans!)

HTH,
René

Zippo works? That's great to know.
Film labels aren't really an option. Most of my slides are premade, many which are "vintage", featuring handwritten labels. It's sad to see them ruined, so I am as careful as possible when I clean them.

When I make my own, I'll consider film based ones, thanks for letting me know!

[viktor j nilsson]

I love zippo fluid, works great. IPA and zippo fluid are my go-to cleaning solutions. If something is really dirty, I often begin with Zeiss cleaning fluid. But IPA and zippo cleans well, and dries really cleanly.

[René]

Film labels aren't really an option. Most of my slides are premade, many which are "vintage", featuring handwritten labels. It's sad to see them ruined, so I am as careful as possible when I clean them.

Sure! You can protect them with hair (varnish) spray. That's how I made resistant labels in the old days with the laserprinter ;-)

Got this discussion to a whole new subject, but always great to be able to give tips (btw Viktor, any update on your Vanox story??)

Best wishes, René

[viktor j nilsson]

Film labels aren't really an option. Most of my slides are premade, many which are "vintage", featuring handwritten labels. It's sad to see them ruined, so I am as careful as possible when I clean them.

Sure! You can protect them with hair (varnish) spray. That's how I made resistant labels in the old days with the laserprinter ;-)

Got this discussion to a whole new subject, but always great to be able to give tips (btw Viktor, any update on your Vanox story??)

Best wishes, René

I'll answer over in my own thread in a little bit.

[Ichthyophthirius]

I don't really understand that technique. Maybe I'm overthinking it? So a drop or two of cleaning liquid on a piece of lens tissue, then stretch it and run it into the objective?

Getting anything microscope related in Australia is a struggle, lens tissues included. I'm quite conservative with the usage of them. Is there a good way to clean slides? I don't like ruining the labels.

That's right. You place one drop of Xylene or Toluene on the left side of the cellulose fibre lens tissue (like Whatman 105). You hold the tissue on the edges. Then slowly move the tissue across the front lens, from Xylene drop on the left to the right. Repeat with a fresh tissue. Most lenses will be free from oil after 1 or 2 tissues. Very little pressure is applied with this method (as opposed to rubbing) and the glass remains scretch-free.

To clean slides, place them upside down on a household paper tissue (like paper hand towl, toilet or kitchen paper) overnight to drain the oil. Then clean the remaining oil off with petroleum ether https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_ether on a paper tissue.