Camera upgrade

Have questions about the equipment used for macro- or micro- photography? Post those questions in this forum.

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chris_ma
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Post by chris_ma »

Macrero wrote:I don't use tethering, but afaik both Fuji X-T2 and X-T3 can be tethered either wired or wireless.
here's a good page that list tethering software options:
https://www.tethertools.com/camera/fuji-x-t2/

I've use lightroom and capture one myself and like them both (capture one is more reliable with my nikon). haven't used either of them with fuji cameras.
chris

Macrero
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Post by Macrero »

chris_ma wrote:here's a good page that list tethering software options:
https://www.tethertools.com/camera/fuji-x-t2/

I've use lightroom and capture one myself and like them both (capture one is more reliable with my nikon). haven't used either of them with fuji cameras.
Yep, saw that page. But can't comment on/recommend something I myself didn't used nor even researched properly. Hence the "disclaimer" on the tethering.

As for the cameras, I have used the T3 and T20 (same sensor and processor as the T2), and I am fine with the IQ, you can't get much better with a crop sensor.
https://500px.com/macrero - Amateurs worry about equipment, Pros worry about money, Masters worry about Light

chris_ma
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Post by chris_ma »

Macrero wrote:Yep, saw that page. But can't comment on/recommend something I myself didn't used nor even researched properly. Hence the "disclaimer" on the tethering.
Agreed, just thought I’d mention the page because it gives a good starting point. Capture One has a free 30day trial if somebody already has a T2 or T3. Adobe should have one too.
chris

Macrero
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Post by Macrero »

I have and use the C1 Pro 20. But I never bothered with putting a Pc in the studio, so I have never used tethering.
https://500px.com/macrero - Amateurs worry about equipment, Pros worry about money, Masters worry about Light

Smokedaddy
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Post by Smokedaddy »

Wow, with all the people here, no more suggestions. I'm more than willing to go for a 4/3's, mirrorless camera too or APS-C.

Smokedaddy
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Post by Smokedaddy »

Thought i'd refresh this thread. Still looking to upgrade to something better than my Canon 50D that can be tethered.

-JW:

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

What lighting do you typically use? Flash, continuous tungsten, continuous LED?

Let me know and I'll have a suggestion or two.

Smokedaddy
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Post by Smokedaddy »

Depends on the scope. Lately I've been using the Jansjo LED lights a lot on my MM-11 setup and my horizontal setup. Sometimes I use my flash setup too. Diatoms, thin sections etc., I use my lamphouse. So I can't say what I use the most.

I should mention that I'm slowly putting together a Polyvar MET scope too and I'll be using a full frame camera on that scope once I machine some adapters for it.

-JW:

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

I'm now using a 90D (APS-C) and an EOS-R (full frame). I changed primarily to have a fully electronic shutter in both full frame and APS-C. For continuous light this is fantastic and I would not want to go back to any type of mechanical shutter.

But... the reason I asked about flash is that Olympus is the only one that has cameras (not all) that offer a flash sync signal with a fully electronic shutter (as far as I know). It is severely limited in that the sync speed is (was?) only 1/20 second, but there are still ways it can be very useful. Some folks say that low power flash has extremely short duration so vibration is not really an issue with flash. Maybe as far as "sharpness" is concerned, but something that really bothers me is the vibration between shots when shooting a stack. If you are working with a delicate subject (especially in a water mount) the shutter induced vibration between shots is often enough to slightly jiggle and move the subject in the water. Not good for stacks! Or you might be patiently waiting for a live subject to pause so you can rip off a few shots to do a short stack, but the shutter commotion will cause it to move. Obviously your subject matter will determine how big an issue this is. Other cameras will differ on how the mechanical shutter is implemented for flash. On the EOS-R the flash is fired using a (non-mechanical) EFSC, but the exposure is terminated with a mechanical shutter closing and opening. It's pretty smooth actually. On the 90D (and I think many other cameras) the shutter closes, reopens, flash fires, shutter closes to end exposure, and then re-opens for live-view. I'm not crazy about that. But it does have a built-in flash that can be set to a very low manual power setting which I do use to trigger my main flash via an optical slave. Fortunately my working room is quite stable, and I prefer continuous light unless I have an active critter. I'm finding that with the fully electronic shutters I end up using flash less often.

A big caveat recommending cameras is that due to a considerable investment in Canon EF glass I am most interested and familiar with Canon offerings. There are some great cameras out there now but I am not familiar with the intricacies of their operation. Hopefully others can provide useful info on other manufacturers offerings.

So. For APS-C you might want to consider the 90D or the EOS M6 II. Both have a 32.5Mp sensor. The 90D, while a DSLR, becomes essentially a mirrorless camera when used in live view. The specs and features are nearly the same between these two when the 90D is in live-view. I actually sort of like the 90D "hybrid" design because when I am outdoors I really don't (yet) want to give up an optical viewfinder. (The M6 II can use a removable EVF... don't know what it costs). Both can be fully tethered with the Canon Utility software. For non-microscope shots (both scenic and closeup) they both can do "focus-bracketing" and I find that to be a fantastic feature for acquiring an image stack. (Other manufacturers have this as well. I've used it on Olympus Pen F MFT and it is great there too). At 32.5Mp you'll see more noise than your 15Mp 50D, but more resolution (if the optics are up to it!). If you do direct projection with something like a good 5/0.15 or a 10/0.30 this pixel density is not overkill! (But with higher magnifications it definitely is :wink: )

The EOS-R makes a nice full frame on a microscope. The dials and buttons drove me nuts for awhile, a real departure from typical Canon controls. But they are highly customizable, and I have made peace with them, and have things set up as I like. Since I need to use a 2.5X NFK photo-eyepiece with the BHS microscope where I use it, 30Mp is plenty for anything I'll throw at it.

Smokedaddy
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Post by Smokedaddy »

Thanks very much. I have both Canon and Nikon glass but it would be used mostly for microscopy. So I will keep my eye out for a lightly used 90D then. I've been very happy with the 50D that you suggested years ago too.

Regards ...

Charles Krebs
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Post by Charles Krebs »

I've been very happy with the 50D that you suggested years ago too.
It's still a very good microscope camera if you don't need video. As I mentioned, but will emphasize again, on a microscope all those pixels (32,5Mp) are really only of use in a quite limited number of cases. Mainly direct projection with high quality, lower power (<20x) objectives. And if you use continuous light you'll really like the electronic shutter. But in most cases, don't expect a dramatic, if any, overall improvement in image quality.

Oh yeah... I just added another 32GB of ram and an additional internal 6TB drive. It comes with the territory :roll:

mawyatt
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Post by mawyatt »

Charles,

Congrats!!

James,

I have the Nikons and must stay with them for same reason Charles mentioned (glass investment). They will block the flash hot shoe in Fully Electronic mode, and do use the rear curtain to terminate the exposure in EFSC mode. A work around has been developed for the hot shoe block to allow flash when in Fully Electronic mode.

Noted you use the Jansjo LED lamps, if these are like the ones I have they are 220 lumen output at 2700K temperature. Really like these except the low output and color, so they were modified with a much higher output Cree LED at 5000K temperature and now work as continuous and pulsed flash mode. Might be something to consider.

Best,
Research is like a treasure hunt, you don't know where to look or what you'll find!
~Mike

Adalbert
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Post by Adalbert »

Hello James,
We have already discussed the M6MII:
https://www.photomacrography.net/forum/ ... highlight=
BTW, the flash can be triggered by the rail between the curtains.
BR, ADi

Smokedaddy
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Post by Smokedaddy »

Adalbert wrote:Hello James,
We have already discussed the M6MII:
Thanks, trying to read and decipher all the information in that thread now. :?

-JW:

MarkSturtevant
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Post by MarkSturtevant »

Given the mentioning of Olympus mirrorless micro 4/3, I wonder if what you are looking for is OM-D E-MI ii and a couple other models. That one is 20.4 Mpx, has built in focus bracketing, but also has a 50Mpx hi resolution mode. That could work especially well with a fixed mount. I don't know if the hi res mode works with focus bracketing. You can get one for as low as $800. There is also the OM-D E-M5 ii. Fewer pixels, but the specs are otherwise pretty similar. It costs a lot less.
Finally, with whatever tempts you, you could try a camera out as a rental to see if you really want it.
Mark Sturtevant
Dept. of Still Waters

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