LED power to the epi-illuminator

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iconoclastica
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LED power to the epi-illuminator

Post by iconoclastica »

By the end of November my epi-illuminator arrived by mail and it didn't take long to decide not to open the hunt for the original lamphouse, for it being bulky, hard to get and expensive. Instead I would try to power it with a 10 Watt cree led.
A few days ago the led and its driver finally arrived. I believe that the caravan serails were on strike so it took the camels a wee bit longer to cross the Mongolian Highlands. But on the bright side, mounting the pair onto the illuminator turned out much easier and quicker than foreseen. An element from an old 50mm Practica lens, the rear one, I think, perfectly falls into the position of the collimator lens. Two telescopically fitting cardboard tubes and a decent amount of tape made a rather stable fit with the option to vary the distance between the led and the newly installed collimator lens.

Here's the schematic drawing of the set-up:

Image

Heat is still a bit of an issue, what with no heat sink in place. Luckily I had chosen a led driver with three modes. Additional to full power, it can be set to half power, which turns out to be exceedingly useful, and to blinking. For the latter mode I haven't thought of a use yet. The led is mounted on an L-shaped aluminium bracket that gets hot, so is leading the heat out of the house. Up to some 10 minutes of continuous use on half power, I have not yet seen heat related problems.

Does it work? Well, the light Judged from photographic shutter time it's about half the light intensity of the Labophot's backstage light. output is sufficient for comfortable viewing, even at half power. Note that the A-aperture was wide open and no filters were used. Later, when I had brought the led into a better position, the light output increased by about 30%, if the scale of a photoresistor module is anywhere near linear.

This is the first photo made with the led-powered illuminator:
Image

To align the filament (for lack of a better term) with the rest of the Köhlerian system, the collector ought to project a conjugal image of it at the plane of the A-aperture. Even though the illuminator can be dismantled to some extent, I found it impossible to check this directly. I could place a paper disk at the A-iris, but it would be impossible to see it with the lamp mounted. However, I noted that when I hold the illuminator with light on about 10cm above my desk, I can see a projection of iris blades in focus. At first I was misled to think these belonged to the F-(field) aperture, but they move while adjusting the A-aperture. I guess this projection must be the back focal plane (?); if seems to fall in the upper parts of the objective.

Now I bent a piece of metal wire across the led to get some contrast and moved the led forward and backward, unitil I got a focused projection together with the aperture blades of the A-aperture. Am I right to think that this is the optimal z-position of the led? It is not the position with maximum light output, but the difference is less than 10%.

As for the quality, the only thing I can test now is the even-ness of the illumination. I made a photo of the surface of a piece of white acrylic and then plotted the luminace over the diagonal from top-left to bottom-right. Here's the result (blue line), compared with a similar test using transmitted light. I note here that I still have this slight excentricity issue with my camera mount. With transmitted lighting I can center the condenser optimally for the camera; with incident light I'll have to do with how it falls upon me. The near full-stop vignetting at the right of the chart is close to where the field aperture cuts it. The wire is still in front of the led, but I can't discern a shadow of it.

Image

Now, all this is done with a temporary test set-up in order to determine the parameters of the long-term lighthouse. I am breaking my head now on how to make the led center-able in three dimensions while connected to a sufficiently large heat sink and keeping the construction light-weight. Especially for the xy-centering I could do with practical tips. I have ideas, but it's getting complex and that normally is not a good start.

Wim
--- felix filicis ---

ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

I am breaking my head now on how to make the led center-able
I was thinking about the same problem for the same application.
I found one (only, sorry) of these rms objective centreing/centering things. (The other part is an rms iris.)
It has a dovetail on the back; I don't know what that fits.

It stands a chance of fitting inside a lamphouse or on to the nasty plastic thread on the end of the illuminator! Axial adjustment could be via an rms extender or other screw?
They do crop up - except when you need one...

Image

Image
Chris R

abednego1995
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Post by abednego1995 »

To align white light epi-illuminators for Koehler illumination, one could place a mirror at the objective side, focus on it, remove a ocular and inspect the conoscopic image at the BFP of the objective. You could also use a phase telescope. If you can see the LED die, or bonding wires in the image superimposed on the aperture blades, you have good alignment.

Cheers,
John

iconoclastica
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Post by iconoclastica »

Chris, that's a beaut device. It even may be too exact for the purpose, considering what Nikon self provides (turn the sleeve so that the excentrically placed lamp shifts position). The more serious drawback is that the lcd must remain in contact with a rather large heat sink.

Another example solution comes from the condenser mount. I never disassembled one, so I don't really know how they constructed it. But it looks to me it is dangling from a spring at 12 o'clock, counteracted by screws at 8 and 4 o'clock.

What I am thinking of now is similar, though with perpendicular actuators. I draw it here in 1D, to keep it simple:
Image

The mobile stage has an H-profile, so it can move in x and y directions, but is kept in z-direction. The static stage falls betwen the legs of the H, and has thumb screws and springs opposite.
The issue I am expecting with this design is that the mobile stage is effectively clamped. So when there's a second adjustment perpendicular to this one, one expects friction. I cannot estimate how bad that will be. It just might become all too dependent on the strength of the spring: to stiff and it won't slide, too lax and it will buckle. Blade springs could be a better idea but I think they must be custom made.

So I am rethinking now the condenser stage design. Only I never liked it how the left and right screws don't move the stage independently.
--- felix filicis ---

iconoclastica
Posts: 487
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2016 12:34 pm
Location: Wageningen, Gelderland

Post by iconoclastica »

abednego1995 wrote:To align white light epi-illuminators for Koehler illumination, one could place a mirror at the objective side, focus on it, remove a ocular and inspect the conoscopic image at the BFP of the objective. You could also use a phase telescope. If you can see the LED die, or bonding wires in the image superimposed on the aperture blades, you have good alignment.

Cheers,
John
Hi John,

I have seen a similar procedure described somewhere, likely this forum, but I have to find it back. It was interesting, for it had a use for this mysterious pinhole eye-piece I have.

Wim
--- felix filicis ---

ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

That centering divice I showed is a substantial piece of metal, easy to fix to another. I think I'll try it.


How precisely do you think you need to move your LED? Did you post a photo of the holder?
Chris R

iconoclastica
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Location: Wageningen, Gelderland

Post by iconoclastica »

I haven't got a photo yet, for all I have made is the test set-up. It was made of cardboard tubes with a hole in the centre. I just aligned the led with the holes. That already worked quite well, so I don't think it need to be very precise. Nikon's approach isn't exactly precision mechanics either. The original lamp's filament is about 5mm, to have an order of magnitude.

Why not make a well crafted lamp-house with the led fixed into the right position? Does it need to be readjustable? I thought so, for the led I have now may not last forever, or perhaps I once want to change to a more powerful one.

Now I start wondering again: the leds come on 2cm diameter copper pcbs that are stuck with thermal paste to the heat sink. The paste hardens, but very slowly; time enough to center the led by hand, or by screws that are only temporarily in place. This would simplify the design a great lot.

Bright transmitted light with the epi-light in place, but off, may perhaps the very centre spot with a bright dot? I will try that straight away.

ANother consideration is that the careful adjusted centering by a metal device could creep as soon as the contraption gets heated. BTW, the heat conductivity of aluminium is good, of copper excellent, but of steel not very good. I suppose your centering thing is steel?
--- felix filicis ---

ChrisR
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Post by ChrisR »

Nikon's plastic would surely expand on heating quite a lot, so perhaps precision isn't critical. That's with 50 or 100W.
I wonder if a single LED would be more appropriate than a COB, where you may have 20 LEDs spread out over the piece, in unspecified patterns?

My thing is mostly a copper alloy, probably C36k. The weak link thermally is possibly the paste - last time I checked for something else, it was >1 order of mag worse than metals.
Chris R

iconoclastica
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Post by iconoclastica »

I deliberately selected a single led (7x7mm square), but it's already too long ago to bring up the aguments why exactly. Suppose it had to do with filament size. Now I look better I notice it's actually a quartet:

Image

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The copper alloy should do, I'd say. You could fiddle a heat pipe through the hole, but I wonder if that adds anything but construction trouble. The paste ought te be used in very thin layers (0.3mm max). Last week when disassembling an old Dell laptop, saw that they had made quite a sandwich to cool the processor: cpu>paste>aluminium cover>tape>alu-harness with integrated heatpipe to heat sink>more tape>lost what was last...

The tape I have never seen before. It's a kind of fabric impregnated with gritty paste .
--- felix filicis ---

JohnyM
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Post by JohnyM »

That led is already 2x2 and will display ugly cross unless diffused. And when diffused it's power is gonna be roughly equal to 1x light source.

iconoclastica
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Post by iconoclastica »

That would be if used in Critical illumination, but the epi-illuminator uses Köhler.
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JohnyM
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Post by JohnyM »

That's how it's working in all my koehler illuminators.

iconoclastica
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Post by iconoclastica »

Johny, you may want to review your illumination path. In Kohler, the filament image must be completely defocused. In the introduction above I described how I deliberately placed an opaque filament against tle LED's glass. When visible, it contrasts much more than the faint outlines of the partial leds. This is what I could see through a sheet of paper in position of the A-aperture:
Image

Then I forgot about it and couldn't see it at all in the specimen plane.
The seam between the patial LEDs will not be visible.
--- felix filicis ---

JohnyM
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Post by JohnyM »

Well, my illuminators are Zeiss, Nikon, Olympus or Leica engineered.

What i think is the problem, is that you place your light source outside of optimal position, without being fully aware of it. So you might have uniform illumination at the cost of power. Overall it's not a big deal, you just produce more heat and waste more energy.

iconoclastica
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Post by iconoclastica »

I noted that the position of the LED where the output is brightest is different from where I think is the correct position. Also, that it is not a huge difference. Measured with a photo-diode it was about 10%, but, again, I don't know how linear that scale is, nor if perception is linear. But the point to which I do not have a definite answer yet is: how to find the best distance of the lamp from the collector lens.

The only thing I know is that an image of the lamp should be in focus in the plane of the (A-)aperture. And I observe that at a certain distance under the illuminator an image appears in focus of the blades of that apreture, apparently independent on the exact placement of the LED. I assume that is where the back focal plane of the objective should come, though feeling a bit uncertain while I would have expected that a little higher up in the tube.

From there I reasoned that if both aperture blades and filament are in focus within the same projection, I have found the correct distance. If you happen to know a better way of determining the correct adjustment, please do tell me so.

Also I am curious why I should strive for the brightest output. Once the condition enough light for comfortable viewing is met, I'd think that quality is more important than quantity, or do I miss something here?
--- felix filicis ---

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