After trying many bellows for studio stacking I began a search for the PB-5 bellows from Nikon, I felt these bellows looked to be the best design for high magnification work due to the solid track and fixed foot at each end.
I found a set in Korea that I won on fleabay for a mere £50ish, on arrival I was surprised at their size, many bellows I have tried are very small but these are perfect and have ample extension. The look and action are superb BUT here is their failing:
The bayonet mount has slight movement when locked in either vertical or horizontal position, this movement is substantial in my view but may not be an issue at low magnifications around 5:1, the other issue I found was with the track (see picture) when the slider was tightened I found i still had some movement in the area circled, this could be cured with some foil tape that seemed to remove any play.
If the bayonet could be removed then the only way I can see to fix the movement issue would be to drill a 2mm hole into the body and tap a thread for a screwed style break similar to other bellows I’ve used, this would prevent any movement and may make these bellows everything I expected, at present they lock in the 12 o'clock and 9 o'clock position so a screwed break would improve the bayonet design.
I have spoken to Craig Gerard and it seems this is a design issue rather than wear, if anyone has a solution to the movement in the bayonet mount please post as any comments would be greatly appreciated before i start drilling holes
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79065556@N06/
Nikon PB-5 movement issues
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- Craig Gerard
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Could someone with a Nikon DSLR advise if there is any 'play' between the camera bayonet and bellows mount when 'clicked' into either portrait or landscape orientation? I can't recall if my D100 exhibited any such 'play', but vaguely recall it did. Canon EOS connected via an adapter do suffer from a small amount of 'play' (as described by Gary) on all the Nikon bellows I've owned, PB-5, PB-4, PB-6. I currently do not own or use a Nikon bellows.
The main concern would be one of vibration, as you can well imagine, so your input would be appreciated. An elastic band may suffice, but there must be a more elegant way of firmly securing the connection whilst allowing it to behave as designed.
Craig
The main concern would be one of vibration, as you can well imagine, so your input would be appreciated. An elastic band may suffice, but there must be a more elegant way of firmly securing the connection whilst allowing it to behave as designed.
Craig
To use a classic quote from 'Antz' - "I almost know exactly what I'm doing!"
Thanks Craig
This movement is on the bayonet for sure although there is also some rotation on the Nikon to Eos adaptor as you suggest and in excess of 1mm, I’ve reduced any vibration with this issue using some trusty foil tape, two layers has produces a much tighter fit.
Craig are you saying the ‘jiggle’ you referred in a PM to me was with your adaptor rather than within the Nikon bayonet?
Just to make things clear, the issue is like a lose fitting rather than any rotation movement and at the locked position in the bayonet housing only, have any Nikon PB users found this on their bellows.
After some consideration I decided to tap a thread into the collar on the bayonet mount, I had the kit as I was going to do the same mod to a set of ashi pentax bellows that really let me down at the bayonet. (see picture).
The only issue left and one that I doubt will cause me too much grief is the camera can only rotate anti clockwise one ¼ of a turn giving a portrait of panoramic view, I guess this design is the same through the PB range (please advise).
These are a superb build and perfect for the XD and XXD series Canon if that is your preferred camera, It could be that my set were a little worn but now with the added screw break things are as expected. I ran some vibration tests in Canons silent mode 1 and 2 and results are the same with a clear pass!
Sorry for the nasty phone picture
This movement is on the bayonet for sure although there is also some rotation on the Nikon to Eos adaptor as you suggest and in excess of 1mm, I’ve reduced any vibration with this issue using some trusty foil tape, two layers has produces a much tighter fit.
Craig are you saying the ‘jiggle’ you referred in a PM to me was with your adaptor rather than within the Nikon bayonet?
Just to make things clear, the issue is like a lose fitting rather than any rotation movement and at the locked position in the bayonet housing only, have any Nikon PB users found this on their bellows.
After some consideration I decided to tap a thread into the collar on the bayonet mount, I had the kit as I was going to do the same mod to a set of ashi pentax bellows that really let me down at the bayonet. (see picture).
The only issue left and one that I doubt will cause me too much grief is the camera can only rotate anti clockwise one ¼ of a turn giving a portrait of panoramic view, I guess this design is the same through the PB range (please advise).
These are a superb build and perfect for the XD and XXD series Canon if that is your preferred camera, It could be that my set were a little worn but now with the added screw break things are as expected. I ran some vibration tests in Canons silent mode 1 and 2 and results are the same with a clear pass!
Sorry for the nasty phone picture
Last edited by geetee50 on Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Craig Gerard
- Posts: 2877
- Joined: Sat May 01, 2010 1:51 am
- Location: Australia
Gary,Craig are you saying the ‘jiggle’ you referred in a PM to me was with your adaptor rather than within the Nikon bayonet?
Adapters can sometimes have their own issues but I was specifically referring to movement in the bellows mechanism. Once 'clicked' into either landscape or portrait orientation I always noticed there was some undesirable 'play' in the bellows bayonet; a 'click' did not necessarily translate into 'lock'.
Craig
To use a classic quote from 'Antz' - "I almost know exactly what I'm doing!"
- microcollector
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I have had this issue with a PB-6 bellows. As I can have the camera in over the end of the bellows rail, I use a machinists adjustable parallel between the rail and the bottom of the camera to prevent any play.
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Canon T5i with Canon 70 - 200 mm f4L zoom as tube lens set at 200mm, StacK Shot rail, and Mitutoyo 5X or 10X M plan apo objectives.
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Thanks Ray, Microcollector and Craig
It could be that a little play inside the bayonet evolves after years of use, not too much of a concern unless the camera jiggles about, I’ve put a Nikon 8mm tube on mine and may fix the Nikon-Eos adaptor to it with a permanent weld but to be fair the movement that may occur when changing a card or battery during a set is minimal and vibration free.
The break screw has improved things for sure.
It could be that a little play inside the bayonet evolves after years of use, not too much of a concern unless the camera jiggles about, I’ve put a Nikon 8mm tube on mine and may fix the Nikon-Eos adaptor to it with a permanent weld but to be fair the movement that may occur when changing a card or battery during a set is minimal and vibration free.
The break screw has improved things for sure.
Fwiw I have a PB-4 and a PB-5. Both the same in that the rotation isn't entirely stopped by the click, though one is much stiffer to turn the camera from H to V than the other. Yes it would be cool if they went beyond the clicks.
How does this mount come apart? I see no exposed screws
Neither has pitch/yaw play.
I have two cheap F-EOS adapters. One's tight, the other's VERY tight!
Also, the PB-5 doesn't have the problem on the rail which you refer to, though the plating looks quite worn.
How does this mount come apart? I see no exposed screws
Neither has pitch/yaw play.
I have two cheap F-EOS adapters. One's tight, the other's VERY tight!
Also, the PB-5 doesn't have the problem on the rail which you refer to, though the plating looks quite worn.
Chris i think when the bellows are shut you can get to four screws behind the bayonet, i would guess that could be the access point for removal. I had thought about removing the restriction and gaining rotation clockwise and anti clockwise but not had enough time with them to warrant the strip down ...yet
From the response so far it does seem these bellows are a bit hit and miss in regards to firmness in the bayonet.
Does anyone have a link to a confirmed tight fitting Nikon-Canon adaptor?
From the response so far it does seem these bellows are a bit hit and miss in regards to firmness in the bayonet.
Does anyone have a link to a confirmed tight fitting Nikon-Canon adaptor?