This may be of interest to users or potential users:
http://forum.manualfocus.org//viewtopic.php?id=16344
Harold
Flare Problem With Tamron SP 90mm f2.5
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Flare Problem With Tamron SP 90mm f2.5
My images are a medium for sharing some of my experiences: they are not me.
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I did a 'quick and dirty' test today. Im took thre successive images of some foloaige backlit bt the sun, a worst case. This time the foloage forms the centre of the imge, showing the flare more clearly.
The first image is with a lens hood but no filter. The second is with neither. the third is with hod and Hoya HMC skylight filter. The lens was at f8 and the distance to the subject something like 10 feet/3m.
I haven't got the exposures exactly the same but you can see that the effect is much the same.
With a converter there is no flare.
Harold
The first image is with a lens hood but no filter. The second is with neither. the third is with hod and Hoya HMC skylight filter. The lens was at f8 and the distance to the subject something like 10 feet/3m.
I haven't got the exposures exactly the same but you can see that the effect is much the same.
With a converter there is no flare.
Harold
My images are a medium for sharing some of my experiences: they are not me.
- naturephoto1
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Hi Harold,
In most instances you should be able to see the lens flare issue in the camera viewfinder before you take the photograph. You may wish to consider repositioning yourself when this happens to remove the issue; this will of course have some affect on the composition. Lens flare like this is frequently more noticeable when the camera lens is facing directly into the sun or the sun is actually partially in the photo frame. Also as others have indicated, whenever possible try to use a lens hood. Multicoated filters may help, but a filter on the front of a lens (no matter how good) can at times present an additional reflective surface that can cause lens flare. I watch for this, though I normally use very high quality UV filters on the front of my lenses whenever possible and use a lens hood or shade the lens if not possible or practical when the camera is mounted onto a tripod.
Rich
In most instances you should be able to see the lens flare issue in the camera viewfinder before you take the photograph. You may wish to consider repositioning yourself when this happens to remove the issue; this will of course have some affect on the composition. Lens flare like this is frequently more noticeable when the camera lens is facing directly into the sun or the sun is actually partially in the photo frame. Also as others have indicated, whenever possible try to use a lens hood. Multicoated filters may help, but a filter on the front of a lens (no matter how good) can at times present an additional reflective surface that can cause lens flare. I watch for this, though I normally use very high quality UV filters on the front of my lenses whenever possible and use a lens hood or shade the lens if not possible or practical when the camera is mounted onto a tripod.
Rich
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I deliberately set up a worst case for my favourite aperture, having not seen it in my images.naturephoto1 wrote:
In most instances you should be able to see the lens flare issue in the camera viewfinder before you take the photograph. You may wish to consider repositioning yourself when this happens to remove the issue; this will of course have some affect on the composition. Lens flare like this is frequently more noticeable when the camera lens is facing directly into the sun or the sun is actually partially in the photo frame.
Yes, I can see the flare in the viewfinder.
Yes, pointing it away from the light source by even a small amount loses the flare very quickly.
Should I wish to shoot an image close to a strong light source I now know that a TC prevents such flare.
Harold
My images are a medium for sharing some of my experiences: they are not me.
- rjlittlefield
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That's normally good advice, but it may not apply in this case. The problem described at http://forum.manualfocus.org//viewtopic.php?id=16344 and illustrated here seems to be caused by light bounding back and forth between the sensor and the flat rear element of the lens. It should be visible in Live View, because then the display is showing very close to what will eventually be recorded. But it may not be visible when viewing through an optical viewfinder, because then half of the cause is gone. No flat and reflective sensor, no glare spot.naturephoto1 wrote:In most instances you should be able to see the lens flare issue in the camera viewfinder before you take the photograph.
--Rik
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- naturephoto1
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I am more familiar with the issues working for so many years with my film based cameras in 35mm up to 4" X5". As you point out the the live view that is my situation for my Panasonic Lumix G1 (electronic viewfinder) so I would expect to quite likely see it if it should arise with this camera. I suspect though that with something like my Canon G9 or G10 since these neither have the live view nor through the lens viewing that this could well be an issue. The same would quite possibly be an issue with my Mamyia 7II.rjlittlefield wrote:That's normally good advice, but it may not apply in this case. The problem described at http://forum.manualfocus.org//viewtopic.php?id=16344 and illustrated here seems to be caused by light bounding back and forth between the sensor and the flat rear element of the lens. It should be visible in Live View, because then the display is showing very close to what will eventually be recorded. But it may not be visible when viewing through an optical viewfinder, because then half of the cause is gone. No flat and reflective sensor, no glare spot.naturephoto1 wrote:In most instances you should be able to see the lens flare issue in the camera viewfinder before you take the photograph.
--Rik
Rich