Now that the test is finally online... I had thought the sharp image circle of the Mitutoyo 5x was about 32mm, but you seem to get pretty much perfect results with the Raynox up to about d36mm. Pretty much all the lenses show clear drop on quality at the same point. The level of "better" and "worse"...

Theoretically you should use moon, but in practice it doesn't matter as you can easily calculate the correction if you know the focal length and the distance you had it focused. The correction is db = f - 1 / (1 / f - 1/a), where f is the focal length and a is the distance to the target you used. Ju...

The objective field doesn't quite match Mitutoyo. Let's be conservative and say that Mitu has 30mm sharp area at nominal mag, which I think is conservative. For 10x that would be 3mm on object. These promise 2.4mm, which is 20% smaller. Even if they were sharp all through that, I wouldn't be too hap...

I don't know if this helps at all, but...

Mitutoyo 10x & DCR-5320 Pro (+3)


Mitutoyo 10x & Canon EF 300mm f/4 L IS USM


Full size images with Canon EOS RP.

It is measured from the optical center of the Raynox, which naturally is not marked anywhere.

What I've measured is 202.8 mm from sensor to rear flange of the Raynox. I don't claim the last digit is correct, but the result should be in the ball park.

with mitu 20, DCR-150 and M42 2X TC Have you tried with different TC:s? There are huge differences between them and the old ones are usually pretty bad. One of these days I'll try the lower mag Mitus with RF 1.4x and 2x to see how they compare with my not so ideal longer lenses. I've already seen t...

I didn't even know there was a way to use it other than a folder at the time!

I've set it so that it has input folder and output folder and after opening the program, I just click for it to run batch. Seemed pretty fast for me, but converting a couple of thousand images at the time does take awhile.

The only advantage for 42 over 58 I can think of is better availability of parts and lower price.

The larger size is more rigid and allows for all kinds of constructions including light baffles inside to cut reflections.

OK - that requires decent working distances. The 10x Mitutoyo in the buy/sell forum should work well, but you may consider it too pricey. I'm not sure about other good choices in that magnification.

Do you need working distance or not? In other words - what are you going to photograph and what is the intended light setup?

MarkSturtevant wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 10, 2021 8:44 pm

Drop one, and its hard to find!

I have found them disgustingly easy to find ... with my feet.

I know you wrote "as high resolution as I can get", but is that really true? Adding magnification and number of tiles will increase resolution, but it will also increase the number of images fast if you want to image the whole object with that resolution. It seems to me it would be better to set som...

An easy try is Microsoft ICE (Image Composite Editor). It is particularly good for the price.

The part with the 3D printer seems theoretically possible, but how would you control the printer movement? The normal software likely would not work for this. The problem with the miniature sensor is the pixel size. It is 1.55 um. I don't have NA for the Amtech at hand, but for LOMO 3.7x NA 0.11 you...

JKT, I do use it with that objective. But it is useful for a much wider range of objectives. It is important to remember that if 200mm tube lenses are the normal choices for APS cameras, then the 300mm should be the normal tube lens on FF. It will give you the same field of view on FF that the 200m...