I have tested a slide projector condenser lens with a torch and can see a cone of light produced by the lens. This cone is in focus on the subject. Would the size of the patch stop match this cone somewhere between the lens and the subject? Would the appropriate field of view of the camera lens then...

Nathan reported them as being F2.8 as a set. What would their effective aperture be individually?

Would the Nikon 300mm F4 ED ID be a btter bet or worse due to the smaller diameter?

I also have a 500mm F4 Nikkor!

I have the Raynox 5320 which is made up of two parts:

Raynox DCR5320 A, 486mm
Raynox DCR5320 B, 311mm

Would it be an option to use them individually with a Mitty 10x?

I also have a Nikkor 300mm AF-S F4.

I have the Mitty very close to the Raynox as worked out by Nathan so no space for a baffle there. I am talking about the tube between the camera and the back of the Raynox. I am using Fusion 360 to do the design and it can "loft" between a circle and a rectangle a certain distance away and insert ba...

There is a Raynox 5320 with a 10x Mitty attached to the end of the Thorlabs tube and a Nikon D810 on the other end.

I'm looking for some suggestions for the design of a 3D printed baffle to fit inside Thorlabs 3" tubes. The length from a recess just inside the camera bayont fitting to a another recess at the end of the tubes is 142mm. Diameter of recess at camera bayonet is 48mm. Diameter of recess at end of tube...

Yes, that's right, hence the need to keep the LED cool in order for the extra power to be delivered as light (AFAIK!)

I will be doing video so need continuous light.

Subjects would include comb jellies that vary from a 5mm (sea gooseberries) to 10cm (beroe). I'd be using transmitted light on a horizontal macro rig.

Agree about the water cooling. My CPU has one and it is really neat and compact compared to the huge cooling fan towers that I used to use. I'm thinking about using something like a Corsair Hydro Series H45 for a 39V COB LED if the smallish copper/ally heat sink with fan doesn't do the job. I'm alwa...

I'm looking for recommendations for a condenser lens to do macro dark field using lenses such as a nikon 60mm 1:1, Canon Macro 35mm 3-5x and a Mitty 10x.

I contacted Nathan who was happy to share the model but nothing came of it. I have access to a 3D printer and can use Fusion 360 so am happy to try out some designs if anyone has any suggestions as to how long the hood can extend from the end of the objective and what the max opening should be.

It was my fault that the Luxdrive burnt out as I shorted it whilst trying to determine which way the wires should be connected to the pot!

I'm looking for some tips for a design for a lens hood for a Mitty 10x

I've already bought a 6V, 12V and 24V power supplies and now need to be able to drive a 39V 2.8A LED and have burnt out one of the Luxdrives so wanted to have more control with readouts as to what is going on. Also bought 4 LED cheapo drivers from China with readouts but these induce LED flicker on ...

At the moment I use a DC unit connected to this http://www.luxdrive.com/products/flexblock-a011/

Would I be able to use the bench power supply connected directly to the LED and dim it?