As I understand that when holding the lens unmounted the mechanism moves freely, it sounds as there has been some previous botched service job or such. On MF lenses there's a mechanical stop and if it's misaligned then problems occur. Since MF users frequently want the lens to be exactly at infinity...

This is what I was implying with my comment of using a coin to make the comparison. I'd probably use a US Cent, at 0.8:1. Will that be useful to the group? I'd throw in the 90mm Apo Componon HM and the two 75mm Apo Rodagon D's (1x and 2x) as well. But my test subject is a 19mm circle, so my result ...

I think it needs to be kept in mind that the Printing Nikkors are designed for magnifications strictly around 1:1 and are not likely to be anything special outside that magnification (the review at coinimaging hints at that too). Thus comparing with lenses that are not optimized for 1:1 is a bit tri...

I don't think there's any magic to the Morfanon. What sets it apart is that it's very cheap, the right size, the right focal length and good all-around. I remember Morfa specifically liking the flexibility of the Morfanon, but there are better tube lenses in terms of image quality. Find a decent len...

The K rings were manufactured during a long period and my understanding is that there were minor changes during the period, which might be why there are warnings not to use them. Personally, I've had no problems. I have two sets, they are one handy tool at my disposal for unlikely lens combinations...

As Charles points out, the existence of noise reduction only matters when the intent is to take tens or hundreds of images and exposure stack them so as to reduce noise and enhance dynamics. And if that is to be done, the best results are anyway achieved using dedicated CCD astrocameras, although a ...

The S-Orthoplanar might be the only one that would actually challenge the Printing Nikkor... but I don't have one to try and I'm not likely to get one either in the immediate future, so this is pure speculation. But if you want an real boost in quality, you should be looking at a Nikon D800(e). I do...

The 55/3.5 should be a fine lens for this. My older version was very good in IR. Passing both visible and IR allows for experimenting with various filtrations, provided that you buy various filters to use. The drawback is that visible-blocking filters make the viewfinder useless when in place. Prett...

I'm a Nikon user and most of my photography is not macro, so I'll get an D800. It will be interesting how it works for macro though, I'm thinking that lack of EFSC just requires more planning and care of the mechanical aspects of the setup. The live view has anyway improved a lot over earlier Nikons.

Hi! I'm interested if there is a comparison somewhere between the C/Y 100/2.8 Zeiss and the currently produced Zeiss 100/2, do you have a link? There was at some point extensive threads on Nikongear about the Voigtländer 125/2.5, the Zeiss 100/2 and the Leica 100/2.8. My conclusion was that each has...

My Nex-3 would benefit from being more rigid and having a larger contact area for the quick release plate; now I don't feel its the most solid option for macro as I can't really guarantee no vibration with it in higher mag. But Nex-7 might be stronger and more rigid. IIRC, Nex didn't have a cable re...

Thanks Betty, I had missed that original link about the Proxxon. Seems that it's a handy item, but does something that my equipment can already pretty much do. Yes and no. I've used the Jansjö spots (usually one or two) as the only source of light for my for studio stacks for some time now. I was a ...

It's interesting that the Canon G1X is actually larger than the Panasonic G1X (Canon loses one point for bad naming...). The sensor is 4% larger than 4/3, so for all practical purposes it can be said that it's 4/3 equivalent, the difference isn't noticeable. Agree that the new Fuji is the one to wat...

Nice description, I think it's valuable to present options that do not require hunting on eBay and do not cost an arm and a leg. I have some questions and points to make. First, is the Jansjö light used for subject illumination? Isn't that a bit limited in terms of capabilities (and color rendition)...

Are you using a crop sensor? A fixed focal length lens somewhere around 135 mm should work with the Nikon 10x and cover the whole frame. A lens without helical might be considered for easier adjustment of magnification. An enlarger or macro lens might be considered also (Canon or Olympus macros, Sch...