Sharks,

Your photos are wonderful and your setup is ingenious. Is the base of the system a metal breadboard or merely some type of plywood covered with a dark fabric.

Thanks,

Bill

I've had good luck with both the 200QC and 200AI/AIS versions as tube lenses. If you go for a 200Q, I recommend getting the 200QC version with coated optics. Many of these later versions (including mine) were AI converted with factory aperture rings, so look for one of those if you're going to moun...

My mother-in-law just gifted me some of her old 70s/80s Nikon equipment for the express purpose to sell most of it. But there's a lens or two that I might want to keep. Among those are a Nikkor 105/2.5 and a Nikkor 200/4. The latter has been used to good effect as a tube lens, according to a forum ...

Hi Charles! Thanks for the comment. Yes I realized that the output values are very low like 30 lumens. Do you think it is not enough for illuminating very small objects? I use Ikea Jansjö lamps and their output is like 75lm according to their web-site. Lumens are not a good measure of the luminous ...

Billjanes, I did not realize that this forum prefers only Zerene Stacker photos and not photos stacked by other programs. Therefore, I will not post anymore stacks until I learn Zerene Stacker. I am off to learn Zerene Stacker. Leon Leon, I am sorry that I gave you the wrong impression and am glad ...

To continue my learning how to perform photo stacking using Photoshop CS6, I decided to try and stack photos of my wife's Memorial Day bouquet of flowers. I photographed the flowers with the Nikkor 300mm f/4E PF lens mounted on a Nikon D500 camera. The bouquet of flowers was 12 inches wide, so I ha...

Y A general question though, is there are reason I should bother buying something like a Nikon AI-S 200mm F/4 or a Nikon 105mm F/2.8 Micro when I can just go to ThorLabs and get an Infinity Corrected 200mm or 100mm Tube lens? I've been scouring the forums but haven't really been able to find much o...

I notice that there is a lot of discussion about vignetting from some tube lens', some being better than others in that regard. So I thought I would go and lay out some of my astrophotography techniques that may be of interest to others. What this image shows is the process. The image on the right ...

AtmosFearIC, welcome aboard! The obvious place to start is with the Mitutoyo M Plan Apo 5X NA 0.14, which delivers that magnification in combination with a 200 mm tube lens. However, on APS-C sensor, everything in this series can be either used at rated magnification on a 200 mm tube lens, or pushe...

In your second picture, there is a lot of DMap artefacts The second picture was a 1:1 view of the first, which was stacked with PMax, so I don't understand why it shows DMap artifacts. I agree with Jörgen's analysis. There's no way the posted 1:1 view was constructed by PMax. PMax does not give lig...

Flies are sometimes annoyingly difficult to stack. There could be hours of retouching. I usually end up with one or two sub-stacks for every large bristle. In your second picture, there is a lot of DMap artefacts - a frequent problem with bristles - but also some areas that looks like they are out ...

I am just getting into extreme macro and am not sure if I should post this here or in the beginner's forum, but will try to post here. This is my first try. I captured a house fly and took 96 shots with the Mitutoyo 5x NA 0.14 using the Nikon d800e with a 200 mm f/4 AI Nikkor as a tube lens. Focus s...

I use the Nikkor-Q 200mm, whose versions are discussed here: https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/6070nikkor/telephoto/200mm.htm A 52mm adapter to Mitu thread size connects the lens to objective. The 200 mm f/4 AI and AIS lenses are the successors to the 200 mm f/4 N...

How many images were stacked? I ask because DSLR Controller sometimes chooses seventy or more exposures. I'm using continuous lighting because I'm not terribly inclined to cook my good Sigma flash with 77 consecutive actuations. As others have noted using low magnification, even @ ISO 64, I need on...

"For more extreme macro, one would likely want to use mirror up and allow a settle time for vibrations to die down after raising the mirror and before taking the shot. Also, one might want to use electronic first shutter if available. Depending on the camera, this could be difficult to accomplish i...