SK 120mm Makro Symmar - 0161 Its magnification is x0.2 to x0.3 (closeup therefore) and x2.6 when used in reverse? No x1 (1:1)? Can you send me a link, please, so I can actually find out what this lens is? Thanks. For 1x you'd need -0158 or -0058, which is a bit older. That 80mm version Chris mentio...

Not quite. I was thinking of the industrial Makro Iris version, which is shortly mentioned in the latter link. Actually there are four different versions of it based on magnification (-0158 ... -0161) and then slightly different version (-0058 ... -0061) based on age. The one I mentioned is for magn...

Mejiro-Genossen FL 1030 1-3x FLOAT should be a good starting point, but not cheap. A reversed S-K 120mm Makro Symmar -0161 might be able to handle over half of the remaining range. The required extension could be somewhat difficult though ... especially vertically.

I have some doubts on these points: - Range of movement: 95mm (confirmed) - Screw pitch: 2mm (confirmed) Will these values be enough to work with to start with the Canon MP-E 65? For MP-E they should be enough ... IF that is not your only movement. If you can move the camera (or object) roughly int...

That 17A is what the flash CAN take. It doesn't need it. A way lower current will work just fine especially considering that you might then avoid extra delays for cooling. You just need to limit the current in some way.

I think the main reason for small differences is R6. Both can pretty much saturate the sensor with details. After that it is a question of tube lens quality and corner performance. If you had R7, used longer tube lens or 1.4x or 2x behind the tube lens, you would see the difference much better. Havi...

That puts the internal resistance at 0.2 Ohm. That's a nice reference even though it is strictly valid only for that flash.

About the corner softness: How are you ensuring that you film is flat?

I was going to write: "I suspect the worst problem is the likely safety circuit in the power supply. When faced with overcurrent they tend to shut down completely whereas batteries give what they can and soon get the capacitor loaded so much that the current drops. For that reason I used 6V 5A power...

Nel senso che sul lato destro dell’immagine vedo là rotondità dell’obiettivo If that means what I think it does (on one side you see barrell/pincushion distortion and not on the other), something is seriously de-centered. That could be either inside the lens, but it could also be angular error in t...

Those looked interesting to me as I need something for magnifications less than m=1.5.

Without knowing anything ... teleconverters?

Never mind - that would need a bayonet at the other end too.

dickb wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 14, 2024 3:13 am

JKT: I would give the +2 and +3 lenses of the Raynox a try separately, I often got better results with those than the +5 combo.

I suspect I won't. The available magnifications make that pretty much pointless for my purposes. Sorry!

Did you use the +2 lens, the +3 lens or both, for a combined +5? With a full frame camera or APS-C or other? That was +5. Camera was Canon RP (FF). With the results I got, there was no point in pursuing that further. So you used all the lenses at widest aperture, or did you stop either the reversed...

This is just a quick note of some tests I did with EF 400mm DO II as tube lens. Taking lens: Raynox DCR-5320 Pro - horrible. Overall I'd call the look dreamy. There may be some reflections from the setup, but I don't think that can explain the results. So using the close-up lens as intended is a bad...