Hello,
after a few years' break I decided to return to the subject of macro photography, as the spring is getting closer.
I managed to catch a fly recently for "studio" light and equipment tests
and I was reminded of a few illnesses that bothered me and made my work and effects difficult
I'll get to the point:
1. I currently use the DCR 150's Raynox mounted directly opposite the mitutoyo lens. I often watch someone backstage, and I noticed that often raynox is mounted by "some" distance according the lens.
Is there a golden mean when it comes to distance?
Is it better to use a reverse-mounted raynox, or mount it normal?
2. Next question is about light.
In the era of LED light source - I assembled myself a small LED lighting kit.
But I noticed a significant drop in the quality of the pictures (contrast, sharpness)
After a few tests between the flash and the LED (I found a quality gap) - but I guess I'm doing something wrong
could you give me some advice ? or setup solution ?
3. Regarding to the LED light - how you dealing with vibration problem on low shutter time ?
Distance between raynox and mitutoyo, LED vs Flash light,etc
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Hi,
AFAIK, Robert recommends 5cm.
I use 5,5cm and Raynox revers:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
My LED’s look like follows:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... c&start=15
But for high magnification I use flashes (4*YN660) on 1/128 power synced between the curtains.
BR, ADi
AFAIK, Robert recommends 5cm.
I use 5,5cm and Raynox revers:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
My LED’s look like follows:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... c&start=15
But for high magnification I use flashes (4*YN660) on 1/128 power synced between the curtains.
BR, ADi
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2018 5:49 am
Hello I have the same doubts about the raynox, I think the distance of 5cm is more for the raynox in the normal direction, in this thread I asked recently, and Rik answered me that they thought that better than about 2.5 cm , I understand that with the inverse raynox.
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 024#245024
I do not have much idea, for the little tests that I have done, I would say that inverse and at 2.5 it looks very good, also inverse and stuck.
I hope someone has a more test, because between sticking together and 5.5 cm, normal or inverse raynox there should be clear differences but I am a novice in this .
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 024#245024
I do not have much idea, for the little tests that I have done, I would say that inverse and at 2.5 it looks very good, also inverse and stuck.
I hope someone has a more test, because between sticking together and 5.5 cm, normal or inverse raynox there should be clear differences but I am a novice in this .
Hi,
I have already asked for the perfect distance for the Raynox DCRs and Sigma LSA:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
There is no general rule. It depends on many factors
But many sellers offer sets with Mitty+Raynox DCR-150 mounted revers directly to the lens (without any distance).
BR, ADi
I have already asked for the perfect distance for the Raynox DCRs and Sigma LSA:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... highlight=
There is no general rule. It depends on many factors
But many sellers offer sets with Mitty+Raynox DCR-150 mounted revers directly to the lens (without any distance).
BR, ADi
Hi,
Actually you should focus the tube-lens to the infinity so that you can take a sharp photograph of the house at the end of the street, etc.
Please take a look at that:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... =tube+lens
BR, ADi
Actually you should focus the tube-lens to the infinity so that you can take a sharp photograph of the house at the end of the street, etc.
Please take a look at that:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... =tube+lens
BR, ADi