Jewel Beetle
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Jewel Beetle
This jewel beetle is metalic and is very, very shiny.
Front
Back
See how shiny it is!!!
Sony A7III in electronic shutter and full frame mode
MJKZZ Ultra Rail
2 LEDs continuous lights
Unknown lens hot glued on a helicoid
Magnification is about 1.25x
Step size 0.1mm (100um)
ISO 100, Shutter Speed = 1/10s
71 JPEG images
Zerene Stacking Software
Larger Image
Front
Back
See how shiny it is!!!
Sony A7III in electronic shutter and full frame mode
MJKZZ Ultra Rail
2 LEDs continuous lights
Unknown lens hot glued on a helicoid
Magnification is about 1.25x
Step size 0.1mm (100um)
ISO 100, Shutter Speed = 1/10s
71 JPEG images
Zerene Stacking Software
Larger Image
Still like this mystery lens.
all your shots of both weevil and beetle very nice, composition, background all suite me just fine.
Only wish some body would give me a lens that would turn out like yours has.
George
all your shots of both weevil and beetle very nice, composition, background all suite me just fine.
Only wish some body would give me a lens that would turn out like yours has.
George
used to do astronomy.
and photography.
Zeiss Universal Phase contrast.
Zeiss PMII
B&L stereo zoom.
and photography.
Zeiss Universal Phase contrast.
Zeiss PMII
B&L stereo zoom.
Thanks Saul and George.
No, no cross polarization, just that lighting globe. I think the globe is used for some large light, like a friend said, usually found at some garden gate. Mine is made of plastic, probably acrylic, it has 150mm diameter, one opening of 100mm and another of 40mm, I am asking them to make it 120 and 60 so it will be easier to mount subject and works with larger lens better. Not sure if the 60mm opening will affect the lighting, will see. I found it in a buildling full of LED dealers.
George, yeah, that mysterious lens is still unknown, when it came, it has so much dusts that I can not even see through it, it is so small, yet it covers full frame easily. I do not have MP-E 65, but I think it beats my EF-100mm macro (old version).
No, no cross polarization, just that lighting globe. I think the globe is used for some large light, like a friend said, usually found at some garden gate. Mine is made of plastic, probably acrylic, it has 150mm diameter, one opening of 100mm and another of 40mm, I am asking them to make it 120 and 60 so it will be easier to mount subject and works with larger lens better. Not sure if the 60mm opening will affect the lighting, will see. I found it in a buildling full of LED dealers.
George, yeah, that mysterious lens is still unknown, when it came, it has so much dusts that I can not even see through it, it is so small, yet it covers full frame easily. I do not have MP-E 65, but I think it beats my EF-100mm macro (old version).
- MarkSturtevant
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At large hardware stores and lamp stores, you can get white acrylic lamp shades in the shape of a globe or hemisphere. They are thin, cheap, and come in a range of sizes and thicknesses. The ones with more flexible plastic can be cut reasonably well with a hacksaw.
I have tried using one as a diffuser on my rig, which I hand carry in the field. It worked well but I had difficulty holding the diffuser stable on the lens while carrying. That won't be an issue in the studio.
I have tried using one as a diffuser on my rig, which I hand carry in the field. It worked well but I had difficulty holding the diffuser stable on the lens while carrying. That won't be an issue in the studio.
Mark Sturtevant
Dept. of Still Waters
Dept. of Still Waters
Great images, as always.
Ref: the globe - hemispherical diffuser domes for speedlites are readily available and work very well. I cut them up a bit and arrange the parts around larger glossy subjects (one's that won't fit in a ping pong ball "globe"). If you want to keep a hint of gloss (to show that a subject is really glossy without losing the overall diffuse effect) just let a tiny bit of direct light leak in around the opening that the objective is looking through.
Ref: the globe - hemispherical diffuser domes for speedlites are readily available and work very well. I cut them up a bit and arrange the parts around larger glossy subjects (one's that won't fit in a ping pong ball "globe"). If you want to keep a hint of gloss (to show that a subject is really glossy without losing the overall diffuse effect) just let a tiny bit of direct light leak in around the opening that the objective is looking through.
Thanks.mawyatt wrote:Nice image.
Beats, are these the Godox AD-S17 for the Witstro AD200 & AD360 strobes?
Yes, that's the ones I got. I removed the metalwork and whacked a holesaw through the middle to make an opening for the lens to look through. Keep that hole as small as possible so you retain plenty of diffuser directly "facing" the subject. Too big and most light will come from oblique angles instead - especially at shorter working distances. Then, if necessary, cut away what's needed to fit it on your rig. I had to cut a wedge out of the bottom to avoid the adjustable specimen platform on my horizontal rig. I hold the diffuser in place by attaching it to the end of a Noga stand arm (drilled hole in the back edge pushed onto the end of the arm).
It's worth doing a white balance calibration shot on first use with each type of light you use. These particular filters warm the light (lower the kelvin WB setting). Not too much though, maybe 200K-400K less, depending on the colour temperature of the lights used.
From the dimensions presented by Peter, we may be more likely to be talking about something like this: eBay item number 122147622140.mjkzz wrote:Mine is made of plastic, probably acrylic, it has 150mm diameter, one opening of 100mm and another of 40mm, I am asking them to make it 120 and 60 so it will be easier to mount subject and works with larger lens better. Not sure if the 60mm opening will affect the lighting, will see.
Peter,
What solution do you use to fix the globe?
Regards,
Carlos Magno
Carlos, if that item on eBay is plastic, then it could work if you cut the top off a bit. What I am concerned is that the large opening (where it is connected to a speedlite) seems to be too small, you will get stray lights entering lens, causing hazy images, even with lens hood (self made one with black paper). But from the weight (303 grams), it might be made of glass, in that case, it is hard to cut them if cuttable.
My final version has about 13.5cm opening in the back and about 5cm in the front (where camera is at). It works well for lenses with working distance less than 10CM but greater than 1cm and is thin so it can be partially inside the globe.
For lenses with longer working distance, I think I need larger globe, otherwise, the lens will be outside the globe and reflection of the globe can cause haze.
Hope this helps.
My final version has about 13.5cm opening in the back and about 5cm in the front (where camera is at). It works well for lenses with working distance less than 10CM but greater than 1cm and is thin so it can be partially inside the globe.
For lenses with longer working distance, I think I need larger globe, otherwise, the lens will be outside the globe and reflection of the globe can cause haze.
Hope this helps.
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