Weight for table set-ups.
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I have not tried granite countertops but have had good luck with the composite materials. There are quite a few of them out there, and they are surprisingly easy to machine for holes and countersinks. Don't think about tapping them (!!) but they for sure make a nice heavy base. In fact I am planning on going to a countertop sawing company and seeing if they can cut me some 1" material for this purpose. My daily-use vertical setup is built on one of these pieces, and I have been very happy with it.
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I just managed to repair my [now] interim mount. I replaced the 5/16"(?) insert with a 3/8" one. I finally got a working tool for installing the inserts. You have to use a 3/8" bolt with several washers capped by a 3/8" nut. This allows you to screw the bolt into the insert, then use a socket wrench to ratchet into place. You have to lube up the bolt so that it doesn't stick (which it will anyway) then use a wrench to hold the nut while you reverse the bolt out. The insert is in there GOOD. I was going to do the same with the post after slightly enlarging the hole, but I've run out of 3/8" inserts. I'll pick up some more tonight, but that'll at least get me working until all of my stuff arrives (including the drill press table I ordered last night).ray_parkhurst wrote:I have not tried granite countertops but have had good luck with the composite materials. There are quite a few of them out there, and they are surprisingly easy to machine for holes and countersinks. Don't think about tapping them (!!) but they for sure make a nice heavy base. In fact I am planning on going to a countertop sawing company and seeing if they can cut me some 1" material for this purpose. My daily-use vertical setup is built on one of these pieces, and I have been very happy with it.
Ultimately, this is going to be replaced with extruded aluminum post and fittings, but I'm still working on a design which allows me to quickly switch between horizontal and vertical. I'm thinking about laying down one piece horizontally on [a] board with a vertical piece attached, probably to the rear. I'll have to review other people's extruded post designs.
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Well, the interim, interim solution is in place and seems to be good at least temporarily.
Installing the inserts properly (it's an art) definitely helps. A base, glued and screwed into the bottom of the post wouldn't hurt, but this was all I could get done before I have to leave for work. I'll probably do some kind of base this weekend.
Oh well, I guess you can't start with D-Day. You have to have Dieppe first...
Installing the inserts properly (it's an art) definitely helps. A base, glued and screwed into the bottom of the post wouldn't hurt, but this was all I could get done before I have to leave for work. I'll probably do some kind of base this weekend.
Oh well, I guess you can't start with D-Day. You have to have Dieppe first...
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Here's a stack shot at 5u with the Amscope 4x and the current configuration. The 4x really is good, better than the 10x, I believe:
http://weigledefenseforce.org:1080/word ... S-PMax.jpg
Admin edit [RJL]: change inline image to link, for 5184 × 3456 image.
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http://weigledefenseforce.org:1080/word ... S-PMax.jpg
Admin edit [RJL]: change inline image to link, for 5184 × 3456 image.
Admin edit [CR]: Now not responding
- rjlittlefield
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The image looks great, but I'm puzzled about the step size.Deanimator wrote:Here's a stack shot at 5u with the Amscope 4x
I would normally expect that "5u" means 5 microns, but DOF for an NA 0.1 objective is more like 50 microns.
Is the "5u" a typo, or does it mean something else, or was there massive overlap between frames?
--Rik
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It was a step size of 5 microns as set in the Wemacro control app.rjlittlefield wrote:The image looks great, but I'm puzzled about the step size.Deanimator wrote:Here's a stack shot at 5u with the Amscope 4x
I would normally expect that "5u" means 5 microns, but DOF for an NA 0.1 objective is more like 50 microns.
Is the "5u" a typo, or does it mean something else, or was there massive overlap between frames?
--Rik
I'm really happy with the styrofoam cup diffusion. Lately I've started using sections of two different sized cups, nested together.
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I finished the modification to my vertical mount. It seems to have worked out quite well.
A stack of three wooden disks had a hole drilled through the center, then was glued together.
I then glued the disks to the bottom of the mount and fixed it in place overnight to dry.
The next day I drilled and countersunk four holes in the bottom of the disk around the bolt hole. Finally, I drove in four screws.
It now screws down VERY tight.
I'll post pictures soon.
I bought another post to try the barrel nut, but have been too busy buying the parts for my macro table.
A stack of three wooden disks had a hole drilled through the center, then was glued together.
I then glued the disks to the bottom of the mount and fixed it in place overnight to dry.
The next day I drilled and countersunk four holes in the bottom of the disk around the bolt hole. Finally, I drove in four screws.
It now screws down VERY tight.
I'll post pictures soon.
I bought another post to try the barrel nut, but have been too busy buying the parts for my macro table.
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Thanks.ray_parkhurst wrote:Looks pretty good. I like the extra flange. Is the vertical glued to the flange, or is the flange "floating" and only clamped between the vertical and base?
The flange is made of three wooden disks glued together.
The disk is in turn glued to the bottom of the post, as well as attached to it with four countersunk brass screws.
The entire assembly screws down onto the base (a heavy wooden cutting board) via a piece of 3/8" diameter threaded rod.
It's VERY tightly attached.
I bought another identical post which I intend to use to try out an alternate mounting method using a longer threaded rod and a barrel nut inserted transversely a couple of inches or so up the post from the base. I'll use the same sort of flange on that one too.