Closterium, "Royal Blue" LED + animated GIF
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
- Charles Krebs
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Closterium, "Royal Blue" LED + animated GIF
I put together two "Royal Blue" LED lights and got the appropriate filters. Wanted to try them out for auto-fluorescence, and the best subject I found quickly was closterium. These have been "done" here quite a bit over the past few years and I always found it fascinating to compare the auto-fluorescence image with the regular visible light image. I've started to work up a couple stereo versions and they are really fun to see. I'll post them separately when finished.
50X Olympus LMPLFLN objective. Canon T3i.
50X Olympus LMPLFLN objective. Canon T3i.
- Charles Krebs
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Charles,
I took the liberty of taking the GIF into Photoshop and making the two frames into layers. The red layer was placed on top, blending mode was set to Luminosity, opacity to 62% and this gives most of the colours of the green version, with much of the internal structure from the red version.
It was then necessary to brighten the image up with a levels adjustment so as to match the luminosity of the original.
Regards,
Peter
I took the liberty of taking the GIF into Photoshop and making the two frames into layers. The red layer was placed on top, blending mode was set to Luminosity, opacity to 62% and this gives most of the colours of the green version, with much of the internal structure from the red version.
It was then necessary to brighten the image up with a levels adjustment so as to match the luminosity of the original.
Regards,
Peter
Charles, again perfect pictures!
I find Royal blue clearly better than UV to excite chlorophyll, do you?
Just a caveat line: Usually the royal blue Cree XT-E that is excellent is promoted to work at 1500mA max current drive, likely this is why I burned mine after driving it at 1400mA for few non continuous hours. After taking a more careful look at Cree specifications sheets I found that 1500mA is for the white version while for the blue version it is 1000mA.
Because this difference is not easy to spot at first look, I think they are to blame at 50/50 Cree and the ebay sellers
I'm still waiting the replacement to arrive
I find Royal blue clearly better than UV to excite chlorophyll, do you?
Just a caveat line: Usually the royal blue Cree XT-E that is excellent is promoted to work at 1500mA max current drive, likely this is why I burned mine after driving it at 1400mA for few non continuous hours. After taking a more careful look at Cree specifications sheets I found that 1500mA is for the white version while for the blue version it is 1000mA.
Because this difference is not easy to spot at first look, I think they are to blame at 50/50 Cree and the ebay sellers
I'm still waiting the replacement to arrive
Pau
- Charles Krebs
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Thanks for the kind replies.
Pau... sorry to hear about your Royal Blue LEDs. I'm driving mine at 700mA and using a 10003 Carclo Lens (20mm Narrow Spot LED Optic) in front of it. I was a little worried about the polycabonate lens blocking some desirable light but from what I have seen they pass above 400nm freely. They certainly seem to be at least as effective with chlorophyll as the UV lights.
Pau... sorry to hear about your Royal Blue LEDs. I'm driving mine at 700mA and using a 10003 Carclo Lens (20mm Narrow Spot LED Optic) in front of it. I was a little worried about the polycabonate lens blocking some desirable light but from what I have seen they pass above 400nm freely. They certainly seem to be at least as effective with chlorophyll as the UV lights.
- Charles Krebs
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- carlos.uruguay
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Charles,
Happy to post. As I never save the results of playing with other members' forum images in Photoshop I have just redone the composite.
If doing this for yourself, it is worth playing with the opacity slider on the "red" layer, as relatively small adjustments can make quite a large difference to the overall look of the result. I liked the look at 62%, others may have chosen a different opacity.
Best wishes,
Peter
Happy to post. As I never save the results of playing with other members' forum images in Photoshop I have just redone the composite.
If doing this for yourself, it is worth playing with the opacity slider on the "red" layer, as relatively small adjustments can make quite a large difference to the overall look of the result. I liked the look at 62%, others may have chosen a different opacity.
Best wishes,
Peter
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