Microscope photography question

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Ichthyophthirius
Posts: 1152
Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 5:24 am

Post by Ichthyophthirius »

Hi,

Looks great!
75RR wrote: I have used both projection and afocal. I find both work quite well. Though both have minor issues.
The projection method, when using a raised normal KPL eyepiece does not produce more CA.
Just to clarify "projection"; it's two different methods.
- "direct projection", when the sensor is placed directly into the intermediate image plane (no colour compensation)
- "eyepiece projection", when a normal eyepiece is raised slightly (longer tube length) so it works as a projective (with colour compensation)
75RR wrote: I found however that fine tuning the height was more of a pain, particularly since the way I have my camera connected to a tripod means
I have to remove it to change the batteries!
I'm not sure what you meant with fine tuning the high? Did you know that the monotube you have has a helicoid? Would that help?

Regards, Ichty

75RR
Posts: 766
Joined: Thu May 22, 2014 12:38 pm
Location: Estepona

Post by 75RR »

Thanks Ichthy
Just to clarify "projection"; it's two different methods.
- "direct projection", when the sensor is placed directly into the intermediate image plane (no colour compensation)
- "eyepiece projection", when a normal eyepiece is raised slightly (longer tube length) so it works as a projective (with colour compensation)
Quite right, I should have distinguished between the two.
Speaking of which, there is a third way: I am now using a Micpro f=63mm (Microprojection eyepiece or Projektiv) with a 135mm Olympus OM lens focused at infinity that does away with the need of precise camera height adjustment to achieve fine focus. (I believe the Projektiv creates parallel rays)

Image
I'm not sure what you meant with fine tuning the high? Did you know that the monotube you have has a helicoid? Would that help?
The way I set things up when using the normal eyepiece as a projection eyepiece was to place the eyepiece flush on the photo tube - use the helicoid to fine focus the image - fix that height with the grub screw and then raise the eyepiece to project a 'real' image on to the sensor.
I used different sized slices of plastic pipe to enable me to vary the height and hence the magnification as needed.
The camera was then positioned at the correct focus point using an Olympus OM focusing rail fixed to a tripod.
Zeiss Standard WL & Wild M8
Olympus E-p2 (Micro Four Thirds Camera)

Ichthyophthirius
Posts: 1152
Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 5:24 am

Post by Ichthyophthirius »

75RR wrote:I am now using a Micpro f=63mm (Microprojection eyepiece or Projektiv) with a 135mm Olympus OM lens focused at infinity that does away with the need of precise camera height adjustment to achieve fine focus. (I believe the Projektiv creates parallel rays)
Hi,

Yes, that's right. It's called "Projektiv" but it's a projection eyepiece that projects at infinity. This short projective was re-designed for camera adaptations and gives excellent results.

You can go down even further, combine the Projektiv 63 mm with a 90 mm camera objective for better coverage (on APS-C camera).

Regards, Ichty

75RR
Posts: 766
Joined: Thu May 22, 2014 12:38 pm
Location: Estepona

Post by 75RR »

You can go down even further, combine the Projektiv 63 mm with a 90 mm camera objective for better coverage (on APS-C camera).
Food for future thought; my Olympus E-p2 (m4/3) is still chugging along despite the elevated number of shutter activations - will miss it when it finally goes despite the massive amount of vibration it produces.
Zeiss Standard WL & Wild M8
Olympus E-p2 (Micro Four Thirds Camera)

GaryB
Posts: 521
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2016 12:18 pm

Post by GaryB »

Hey all, sorry for the delay getting back.

I've been busy doing other stuff. I've given up on the idea of direct to sensor. Reading through, it makes more sense to try to do it properly as the results are proven and I'm not going to argue with people who have far more expertise in these matters than me. I'm going to focus on more practice. I have my lighting all setup properly now with a new LED, new collimator and the new prism/mirror base I bought and it's working great. I'm making a new camera mount and going afocal with aims to be the next Charles Krebs (in my imagination) :wink: :lol:

I'm going to read through the thread again and get a better picture of where I need to go from here. I appreciate all the advise and discussion. It's very helpful to people like me who are still newbs in the most literal way.

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