Setting up my PZO (for those in the know)

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 1:42 pm

dolmadis wrote:JW: Another suggestion might be to email Wlodek about the LED issue (encountered before?) but I'll bet you have already done that.

No I have not contacted Wlodek. I wouldn't know what to specifically ask him. I assumed the LED was made to work with the PZO. I plug it in and the light comes on, that's what it was supposed to do. <g>

Regards,
-JW:

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 2:16 pm

Ichthyophthirius wrote: It has to be sorted out first. Please talk to the seller. The LED collector lens might have to be removed or even some of the LED lamp housing to be cut off (possibly). Johnny seems to agree that it appears to be too far away from the PZO collector.

The original lamp is an Osram 8018 15W 6V with BA15d base and tight, forward-facing lamp filament:

Thanks, I ordered that bulb.

What specifically should I ask Wlodek? When I first emailed him I was under the impression that the LED was specifically made for the PZO. At least that's what I mentioned in my email to him. I don't mind loosing a few dollars on this transaction.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikroskop-PZO-B ... Sw~oFXOGtq

-JW:

Ichthyophthirius · Post by **Ichthyophthirius** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 2:25 pm

Smokedaddy wrote:What specifically should I ask Wlodek? When I first emailed him

Take an image with the objective 10:1 (FA fully open) and show him what the problem is: there is a small bright spot of the LED in the center but the rest of the field is not illuminated.

Ask him what you should do to get an evenly illuminated field!

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 2:44 pm

Ichthyophthirius wrote:
Smokedaddy wrote:What specifically should I ask Wlodek? When I first emailed him
Take an image with the objective 10:1 (FA fully open) and show him what the problem is: there is a small bright spot of the LED in the center but the rest of the field is not illuminated.

Ask him what you should do to get an evenly illuminated field!

I don't mean to be rude or sound stupid but the field is fully illuminated when the condenser is raised to the highest position.

The only time it isn't is when I drop the condenser down a touch to be able to view the FA blades. So are YOU saying that I should have a fully illuminated view (blue background so to speak) at that point just as I do in the image below except I will see the iris blades in addition to the calibration slide?

Ichthyophthirius · Post by **Ichthyophthirius** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 3:15 pm

Yes. You focus the condenser down (around a mm) until you can see the FA blades. Then open the FA to the edge of the field. The field should then be fully and evenly illuminated.

If it looks like this with just a spot of light in the middle of the field, the LED is not in the correct position. It must be pulled out a bit or pushed further into the microscope base. If that is not mechanically possible, something about the lampholder has to be changed.

Smokedaddy wrote:

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 4:34 pm

Thanks ...

genera · Post by **genera** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 11:15 pm

Smokedaddy wrote:So this can NEVER be centered then, nor the LED?

-JW:

In your photo of the bottom side of the microscope on page 4, there are two screw heads below where I think the mirror is. Have you tried adjusting them? They may be for centering the lamp by tilt / tip of the mirror . . . or maybe not.

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Sat Mar 25, 2017 11:25 pm

Actually I noticed them. The steel bottom plate lightly rested against the two screws which I assumed caused electrolysis (dissimilar metals). I saw two rust looking spots on the inside of the plate. I didn't want to disturb the two screws since they 'seemed' to be pretty corroded. If that's what they are I could probably carefully clean them up. Thanks for bringing that up.

Pau · Post by **Pau** » Sun Mar 26, 2017 1:30 am

genera wrote:In your photo of the bottom side of the microscope on page 4, there are two screw heads below where I think the mirror is. Have you tried adjusting them? They may be for centering the lamp by tilt / tip of the mirror . . . or maybe not.

I have the same thought about the rusted bolts, if not intended for moving the mirror, what other function could them have?. But before moving them first solve how to center the condenser, did you try to move it manually as I did suggest?

What about the black knurled ring between the lamp and the mirror? Maybe it could be intended to focus the lamp....

dolmadis · Post by **dolmadis** » Sun Mar 26, 2017 2:02 am

Whilst I do not have access to my PZO Biolar at the moment I do have some measurements, with photos, of the LED Illuminator that was obtained for me by JohnyM (with thanks) if you wish to compare this to the alternative LED Illuminator in your hands. I also have a photograph which indicates where the LED is visually positioned in the light train once the illuminator is installed. Most photos are in Microsoft Word documents and I can PM these to you if you would find this information helpful.

John

JohnyM · Post by **JohnyM** » Sun Mar 26, 2017 6:57 am

Dont touch those screws. That big knurled ring is a field diaphragm.
In PZO (which this LED that OP have is lacking) system lamp is able to be moved forward/backward and centered in its mount.

Ichthyophthirius · Post by **Ichthyophthirius** » Sun Mar 26, 2017 10:18 am

JohnyM wrote:Dont touch those screws. That big knurled ring is a field diaphragm.
In PZO (which this LED that OP have is lacking) system lamp is able to be moved forward/backward and centered in its mount.

I fully agree. Wait for the 6V 15W bulb. The PZO lamp holder has all the centering functionality you need.

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Mon Mar 27, 2017 8:00 pm

Update, Wlodek (the fabricator of the LED) said the lens is the problem. He is sending me another one. <sweet>

-JW:

Pau · Post by **Pau** » Tue Mar 28, 2017 3:48 am

Ask him if it it possible to mount it with a Cree 4000K LED, it will provide better color spectrum and much easier white balance

Smokedaddy · Post by **Smokedaddy** » Tue Mar 28, 2017 11:56 am

I am not knowledgeable about what you're talking about but I did ask. I would't have a clue how to find a 5w Cree with a high CRI index, nor what the specifications would need to be to make it work in this application (how many Lumens are needed, beam angle, what diameter and so on). Some of the sites I went to for the LED don't even list the CRI in the specifications, like this for example;

http://www.topledlight.com/cree-xlamp-x ... p1476.html

Anyway, his reply was ...

It is possible to mount such a bulb, then the color temperature of 4000 degrees Kelvin, will give neutral light, but the CRI, which is color rendering in the bulbs I have, this factor is 92 and is very high, so deciding to change the bulb at lower temperature Color, you need to find out what the CRI is, the higher the color reproduction is, the better. I only have 6050 K bulbs

-JW: