Amcsope B120B

Have questions about the equipment used for macro- or micro- photography? Post those questions in this forum.

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rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

lilewis wrote:it's too bad they don't have a way to apply overhead lighting to the objects on the (stage?). Something like a weak built in ring light.
This is why Charles Krebs invented the pingpong ball, sliced in half with a hole in it for the lens to look through. See http://www.photomacrography1.net/forum/ ... 4478#24478 for the seminal publication using a Christmas tree ornament. Many variations of this technique are now in common use. It can make a striking difference in image quality, even with just visual observation.

However, with typical 20X objectives, the working distance is so short that light has only a narrow angle to get in. That problem is avoided by the use of long-working-distance objectives, but those are in high demand and cost several hundred dollars even on eBay.

--Rik

lilewis
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Post by lilewis »

Thanks for that link Rik,
That's ingenious. I think once I get more comfortable with the basics of how everything works, I might try something like that. although I know it's not really practical with the limited working space my current objectives offer. Light fibers are cheap and I think can even be found in dollar store lamps.

I'm still surprised the manufacturers haven't added something like that as a option.

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Post by rjlittlefield »

lilewis wrote:I'm still surprised the manufacturers haven't added something like that as a option.
External surround lighting is available for a price, in some scopes that are high end and/or for metallurgical purposes.

But where top ("episcopic") illumination is required , most scopes (again, high end or metallurgical) opt for a scheme where light is delivered through the objective. This can take either of two different forms: "darkfield" or "brightfield".

In "episcopic darkfield", light is delivered around the lens, typically through a channel just inside the barrel of the objective, surrounding the glass. The name "darkfield" comes from what you see if you look at a mirror: black, because light coming from outside the lens also reflects to outside the lens.

In "episcopic brightfield", light is delivered through the same glass that forms the image, using a beamsplitter typically combined with polarizers to block unwanted reflections from the lens surfaces. Again the name "brightfield" comes from what you see if you look at a mirror: bright, because light coming from inside the lens also reflects to inside the lens.

More than you wanted to know, I suppose, but maybe the extra background will help.

--Rik

lilewis
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Post by lilewis »

Nope. Not at all more than I wanted to know.
I had a generic idea of darkfield but didn't know the specifics.

As I told you, I'm brand new to this and everything I learn here is a step in understanding the language and techniques.

Thanks again for your patience and help. I know I have a lot to learn. :-)

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Post by rjlittlefield »

lilewis wrote:I had a generic idea of darkfield but didn't know the specifics.
Ah, well, what I described was episcopic darkfield, where the light comes from above the specimen.

Regular darkfield, where the light comes through a condenser that is below the specimen, is similar in concept but different in details. In that case the condenser is arranged to create a hollow cone of light, such that while light strikes the whole subject, none of it gets into the objective except for rays that are deflected by striking the subject. This contrasts with regular brightfield, where the condenser creates a completely filled cone of light such that all of it gets into the objective except for rays that are deflected or absorbed by striking the subject.

--Rik

lilewis
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Post by lilewis »

Thanks again for the clarification.

I took some video today tonight, again using what I think is the afocal method. 20X objective and my camera on a tripod, fine adjustments made with a macro rail. It's probably too large a file for here so I put it on Youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsJ19d8 ... e=youtu.be

Considering these are my first attempts at photos and videos, and that the microscope is 'low end' and the camera supplied with the microscope was so useless, I'm surprised and pleased that I'm still able to see and capture these tiny creatures.

I feel like a kid again!

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Post by rjlittlefield »

lilewis wrote:... using what I think is the afocal method. 20X objective and my camera on a tripod, fine adjustments made with a macro rail.
At YouTube is written:
20X objective and a home-made 33X macro lens acting as an eyepiece and aiming down the barrel of the microscope in an afocal configuration
I don't feel like I have a clear picture of how you have things set up. Normally the term "afocal" describes a setup in which there's a microscope with objective and its ordinary eyepiece, plus a camera focused at infinity and pointed down the eyepiece. The objective forms an intermediate real image just in front of the eyepiece, the eyepiece refocuses that to form a virtual image that appears to be at infinity, and finally the camera lens refocuses the virtual image at infinity to form a real image back on the camera sensor.

The best I can guess from your description is that you have removed the regular eyepiece of the microscope, and in place of the eyepiece you are using the cannibalized triplet.

Do I have that right? Can you post a picture of the setup?

--Rik

lilewis
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Post by lilewis »

Yes you have it right.
Then maybe I am wrong calling them afocal.

When I try to take a picture thru the eyepiece of the microscope, I see only a tiny bright circle. But by using the camera as the eyepiece, I get the results you see.

Here are two photos. When taking the shots/video, I have to move the camera lens to just about touch the microscope. The macro lens barrel is too large to enter the eyepiece hole.



Image

Image


I understand what you're saying about focusing on the eyepiece. I'm so used to taking 33X macro photos the camera set up that way, that I had the camera at the macro setting shooting directly down the barrel to the objective image. Tomorrrow I'll take the macro lens off, then set the camera at infinity and try what you say above. But even if that works, I'd have lost the additional 33X magnification of the home made macro lens. Typically how far from the microscope eyepiece is the camera lens when set to infinity?

Is there a technical reason I shouldn't do it the way I've shown with these photos?

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Post by rjlittlefield »

Is there a technical reason I shouldn't do it the way I've shown with these photos?
My guiding principle is "whatever works!" What you've done is unusual but not crazy, and the results seem to be coming out OK.
maybe I am wrong calling them afocal.
The description at YouTube is pretty good. Because your setup is not conventional, there cannot be anything like a one-word description that will be correctly understood by readers. People steeped in traditional technique will understand "afocal" to mean objective/eyepiece/camera. You're not using a regular eyepiece, but as you say you're using the triplet to act as an eyepiece. Optically what you have is "just like" afocal, but I needed the long description to understand it fully.
Tomorrrow I'll take the macro lens off, then set the camera at infinity and try what you say above. But even if that works, I'd have lost the additional 33X magnification of the home made macro lens.
I'm twitching a bit at that "33X" specification.

Here at photomacrography.net, we generally specify magnification as (size of image on sensor) divided by (size of object in reality).

But I'm pretty confident that your mentor is using it in some different way. That's because the sensor of your C5050 camera is only 7.18 x 5.32 mm, so 33X (in our terms) would mean a field width of only 7.18/33 = 0.22 mm in the intermediate image at the focus of the triplet, and that in combination with a 20X objective would mean a field width of 0.011 mm in the plane of the subject on the microscope stage. But your images are covering a field much larger than that, based on your description of the size of the insect and my experience in what pond water looks like.

If you just point the camera+triplet at a ruler, how many mm do you see across the field?
Typically how far from the microscope eyepiece is the camera lens when set to infinity?
As close as possible. This is to minimize vignetting. In order to avoid vignetting, all the light coming from the eyepiece has to make it through the aperture of the lens. With a camera like the C5050, the aperture will be small (about 8 mm diameter maximum) and will be set pretty far back inside the lens. As a result, it's very likely that the edges of the field will be clipped off by the aperture of the camera. You can see the same effect with your eye if you pull away from the eyepiece. The best camera lenses for use with the afocal method have wide apertures that are close to the front of the lens. The newer "pancake" designs are the best bet to meet these requirements, but your Zuiko 50mm f/2 should work also, as suggested by Ichthy.

--Rik

lilewis
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Post by lilewis »

I accepted the 33x as gospel from Jens without understanding the technical aspects as you are describing because I think his credentials are impeccable. Here is a link to his cv: http://www.mastermat.upb.ro/images/imgu ... _scurt.pdf Obviously with a background like that I was not going to question anything he tells me.

BUT, as you can obviously tell, I am not a technical guy. I retired from the business world, not the technical one. As you can see, this handheld image I just took of a metric ruler with the C5050/triplet is about 14mm at widest part of the vignetted circle. These images can be cropped to eliminate the vignetting and even more without too much loss of detail.

Image


So that's the way I've been doing it and that's the reason why lol

I tried to take a photo just now by placing the C5050/triplet set to infinity with the stock 10x microscope eyepiece (not high point) and the result was a small bright spot that's completely unusable. Maybe I'm missing something that should be completely obvious - a setting somewhere? But the only way I'm able to get decent shots through the microscope is the way I've been doing it. I do have a concern that without the eyepiece, dust etc can get into the barrel and settle on the inside of the objective lens but that's another issue.

Image

Later today I'll try the E5 with the microscope's 10X eye piece and see how that works. I've been leaning towards the C5050 because it's been great for macro work and the E5 is setup for the water drops, which I experiment with almost daily. The E5's lens is much larger than the triplet's so I would expect the vignetting to be much greater than the triplet's photo of the ruler above.

As an aside, some years ago I did the same thing with a friends telescope - used the C5050/triplet as the eyepiece and this was the result. Of course this is a crop, but still.... I think the method worked. :-)

Image

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Post by Pau »

When you look through the microscope eyepiece you use the naked eye over it you don't need to use a magnifier, OK?. Well, in afocal photography you use the camera lens mimicking the eye so you need a lens focused to infinite (or close to it) placed very close to the eyepiece. This way you use the microscope optics as designed.
lilewis wrote:... The E5's lens is much larger than the triplet's so I would expect the vignetting to be much greater than the triplet's photo of the ruler above.
This may be intuitive but is wrong. What matters is the match between the eyepiece eyepoint and the camera lens entrance pupil (no its front lens diameter). Because you have the camera and lens, just try it. I think that the 50/1.2 may be less convenient than the 50/1.8 because it more recessed diaphragm plane but, again, set it to infinite and try it very close to the eyepiece.

You must test also your C5050 without any aditional lens focused to infinite and at a zoom position roughly equivalent to 50mm in 35mm fims cameras (what people say "equivalent focal lenght") again with its diaphragm full open and its front lens very close to the eyepiece. Many compact cameras work very well this way.
Pau

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Post by lilewis »

Ok will do!
Thanks again for sticking with me here. You're a patient guy :-)

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Post by lilewis »

I used the slide with the original bug that is now decaying because it's the easiest one to locate the bug on.

First image = E5 I think that must be the mirror reflection you see. I tried but can't get rid of it. (but it does give some nice overhead lighting). I think Jens told me only the new mirror-less cameras would work here but I haven't decided yet to bite that bullet. Certainly this would offer the widest view with good detail.

Image




C5050 - infinity- wide open shutter - as you suggested. I'm beginning to see this is a higher magnification than just shooting down the eyepiece-less tunnel. (and would keep the objective lens safer from dust inside)

Image

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Post by rjlittlefield »

lilewis wrote:I accepted the 33x as gospel from Jens without understanding the technical aspects as you are describing because I think his credentials are impeccable.
The issue is not anybody's credentials, but rather what they mean when they say "33X".

A microscope would be labeled "33X" if the image as seen by eye through the eyepieces has 33 times larger angular span than the real object would have when viewed at a distance of 10 inches. A print would be labeled "33X" if the image on the print is 33 times longer than the real subject. Projection optics would be labeled "33X" if the projected image is 33 times longer than the real subject. A zoom lens would be labeled "33X" if the ratio between maximum and minimum magnification is 33:1. An add-on lens might be labeled "33X" if it provides 33 times more magnification than you'd get without the lens. These different uses are all industry standard, and it's anybody's guess whether Jens was thinking about one of those or even something different.

When cropped to a rectangle, the field that you're getting with the add-on triplet is about 10 mm wide. That corresponds, roughly speaking, with what you would see through a 33X microscope, so in that sense "33X" can be a reasonable description (though non-standard) for what you get when you point the camera+triplet directly at a subject.

But that is a very different meaning of "33X" from what you'll find in use here at photomacrography.net. It's important to be aware of the difference.
Obviously with a background like that I was not going to question anything he tells me.
With respect, that strategy can be improved. It is always fair game to ask questions that are aimed at making sure the listener heard what the speaker intended to say. There's a big difference between issuing a challenge posed as a question and asking a question aimed at clarification. Since you really had no idea what "33X" might have meant, asking for clarification would have been completely appropriate.
I tried to take a photo just now by placing the C5050/triplet set to infinity with the stock 10x microscope eyepiece (not high point) and the result was a small bright spot that's completely unusable. Maybe I'm missing something that should be completely obvious - a setting somewhere?
It sounds like what you're missing is that I did not say camera plus triplet, I just said camera -- meaning the camera by itself, no triplet. Just the camera looking into the eyepiece. The lens of the camera plays the role of your eye looking into the eyepiece.

When used in this way, you're still likely to get some vignetting. The amount of vignetting will depend on the zoom setting of the camera, so you'll have to play with that to see what gives the best result.

--Rik

lilewis
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Post by lilewis »

Rik, no argument about any of your points :-)

What did you think of the 2 images above? The 2nd (lower) image was just the C5050, no triplet, at infinity, zoomed.

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